In 1978, the fragrance landscape was characterized by a mix of opulence and sophistication, reflecting the broader trends in both fashion and lifestyle. This era witnessed a dominance of bold, complex perfumes often influenced by the lavishness of the 1970s. Iconic fragrances from this period frequently embraced rich, deep notes like patchouli, amber, and musk, aligning with the decade’s affinity for opulence and decadence. Perfume houses were experimenting with intense, multi-layered compositions that mirrored the excess and glamour of the time.
Pavilion by Estée Lauder, launched in this context, represents an intriguing addition. Its name alone, "Pavilion," carries a sense of elegance and grandeur. A pavilion is traditionally a striking, often elaborate structure used for leisure or entertainment, such as in gardens or parks. It evokes images of beauty and refinement, suggesting a space that is both aesthetically pleasing and meant for relaxation or enjoyment. By naming the perfume "Pavilion," Estée Lauder aligns the fragrance with these qualities, hinting at an experience of luxury and sophistication.
In terms of its scent profile, "Pavilion" would have aimed to differentiate itself from the more overwhelming and exotic scents of the era. It might have incorporated notes that were both timeless and modern, perhaps featuring floral elements balanced with subtle woody or citrus notes to provide a refreshing yet elegant character. This balance would cater to women seeking a sophisticated fragrance that was not overpowering but still evocative of the era’s grandeur.
The name "Pavilion" evokes images of a refined and luxurious retreat, a place where one can escape and indulge. It suggests a fragrance that is both majestic and inviting, promising an olfactory experience that is both elegant and memorable. The emotional response to such a name would likely be one of sophistication and allure, appealing to women who desired a fragrance that reflected their refined taste and a touch of exclusivity.
Women responding to "Pavilion" would likely appreciate its ability to blend into the era's love for complexity while offering a unique twist. Its association with a pavilion suggests a perfume that provides a sense of personal sanctuary—a space of beauty and elegance. The fragrance would have aimed to enhance the wearer’s presence, offering a subtle yet potent statement of style and grace.
The New Romantics:
In 1978, Estée Lauder's innovative approach to fragrance was embodied in the launch of The New Romantics Collection, a groundbreaking trio designed to reflect the layered fashion trends of the time. This collection, which included White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion, was conceived with the intention of providing women with a versatile and personalized fragrance experience. The idea was to offer scents that could be worn individually for distinct olfactory profiles or layered together to create a multitude of unique fragrance combinations.
The concept behind The New Romantics Collection was inspired by the layered fashion trends of the late 1970s, where clothing often featured multiple textures and colors combined to create a single, cohesive look. Estée Lauder mirrored this fashion trend in her fragrances, allowing each perfume to be a standalone experience while also blending harmoniously with the others. This layering capability meant that when worn together, the three fragrances could interact to produce 27 different olfactory permutations, offering women nearly endless possibilities to tailor their scent to their mood or occasion.
Estée Lauder's vision for this collection was to empower women with the freedom to experiment and express themselves through fragrance. In her own words, "Fragrance is an extension of the women who wears it, a reaching out to those around her. My new three fragrances are meant to be enjoyed with new freedom. I created them to work together through their floral notes... The ingredients are natural so that one complements the other. A woman will never mix them quite the same way. She will enjoy each one separately, but she will have almost endless possibilities to express her own creations, too."
Each fragrance in The New Romantics Collection was crafted with natural ingredients that were chosen to harmonize with one another, ensuring that the overall sensory experience was both cohesive and versatile. White Linen brought a crisp, clean aroma, Celadon offered a fresh, green floral scent, and Pavilion provided a richer, more complex floral note. Together, these scents created a sophisticated olfactory palette that could be mixed and matched according to personal preference.
This innovative approach allowed women to explore their individuality and creativity through fragrance, aligning with the broader cultural shifts of the time that emphasized personal expression and freedom. By providing a structured yet flexible framework for fragrance layering, Estée Lauder not only offered a novel way to experience perfume but also resonated deeply with the evolving attitudes toward personal style and identity.
In 1978, White Linen emerged as a hallmark of crisp, spring-like freshness. Its scent was designed to evoke the purity and vitality of a new season, capturing the essence of clean linens fresh from the wash and the invigorating spirit of spring. This fragrance featured a delicate yet vibrant composition that emphasized clarity and simplicity, making it ideal for those who sought a light, refreshing scent that resonated with the natural elegance of springtime.
In contrast, Celadon was characterized as a "light mixture of a flower garden," blending the floral richness of a lush garden with a touch of verdant greenery. Its composition was a harmonious fusion of jonquils and ylang ylang, complemented by a mix of fruity and green notes that added depth and vibrancy to the fragrance. The result was a scent that evoked the delicate beauty of a blooming garden, capturing both the sweetness of flowers and the freshness of green foliage.
Pavilion offered a more exotic and complex olfactory experience, described as a "sensuous sophisticated formulation." It featured a rich bouquet of tuberose, narcissus, and jasmine, which were intertwined with earthy patchouli and warm spices. Mossy tones provided an additional layer of depth, creating a fragrance that was both luxurious and intriguing. This scent was crafted to embody sophistication and sensuality, appealing to those who desired a more opulent and enveloping fragrance experience.
Estée Lauder emphasized the connection between fragrance and personal lifestyle, noting that "Fragrance is not separate from living. Women have more varied lifestyles than ever before. They are more independent and more confident. They are showing more creativity. Now they can be as individual with fragrance as they are with their wardrobes." This perspective highlighted the evolving role of fragrance in a woman’s life, reflecting her independence and creativity. With The New Romantics Collection, Lauder provided women with the tools to express their unique identities through scent, allowing them to curate their olfactory experiences just as they did their wardrobes. This approach celebrated the diverse and dynamic nature of modern life, offering a range of fragrances that could adapt to and enhance each woman's individual style.
Layering The New Romantics:
Estée Lauder provided a range of creative tips for wearing her The New Romantics Collection fragrances, emphasizing the versatility and personal expression offered by her innovative layering concept. Her advice was intended to help women maximize the impact and enjoyment of each scent, enhancing the overall olfactory experience.
One of her suggestions was to wear the fragrances side by side, allowing each scent to bloom independently. This approach mirrors the way quadraphonic sound creates a rich, immersive auditory experience, with each fragrance contributing its unique notes to a harmonious whole. By applying the perfumes in this manner, the individual characteristics of each scent would be appreciated, while their combined effect would create a multifaceted and dynamic fragrance experience.
Lauder also recommended layering vertically, using White Linen on the neck and shoulders to highlight its crisp, spring-like freshness, Celadon on the arms to add a floral and green complexity, and Pavilion on the back of the knees for a deeper, more sensual touch. This method allowed the more robust scents to rise and mingle with the lighter notes, creating a balanced and evolving fragrance profile that interacted with the body’s natural warmth and movement.
For a more adaptive approach, Lauder suggested applying different fragrances throughout the day based on mood and activity. Starting the day with the invigorating freshness of White Linen would provide a crisp, clean start, while transitioning to Celadon in the afternoon would bring a refreshing, floral nuance. As evening approached, Pavilion could be applied to evoke a sophisticated, sensual aura. This method allowed women to tailor their scent to different parts of their day, enhancing their overall experience.
Another playful recommendation was to wear Celadon on one wrist, Pavilion on the other, and White Linen on the neck and shoulders. This technique created a dynamic interplay of scents as the wearer moved, with the fragrances drifting and blending across their body. This approach highlighted the collection's layering potential and added an element of personal interaction with the fragrances.
Lauder encouraged experimentation with quantities to achieve the desired effect. She suggested using one short spray of Celadon, two long sprays of Pavilion, and three short sprays of White Linen, or applying one fragrance all over and touching pulse points with others. This flexibility allowed women to customize their scent experience to match their preferences and the intensity they desired.
Finally, Lauder noted that wearing multiple fragrances helped maintain a fresh perception of the scents. When wearing only one fragrance for an extended period, one’s senses can become accustomed to it, diminishing its impact. By alternating between two or three fragrances, the nose remained attuned to the evolving notes, ensuring that the scent continued to be perceived as novel and engaging. This approach also meant that those around the wearer would remain pleasantly aware of the fragrance’s complexity and allure.
Prices for The New Romantics:
In 1980, the retail prices for The New Romantics Collection reflected a tiered pricing strategy based on both the fragrance and the size of the bottle. For the smaller 0.5 oz parfum sprays, White Linen was priced at $8.50, making it the most expensive of the trio. This price premium likely reflected its growing popularity and perceived value. Pavilion followed closely at $8.00, while Celadon was priced at $7.50, positioning it as the most affordable option in the smaller size.
When considering the larger 1.75 oz parfum sprays, White Linen remained the priciest at $20.00, reinforcing its status as the collection's flagship fragrance. Pavilion was priced at $17.50, and Celadon at $15.00, showing a consistent pricing hierarchy that mirrored the smaller sizes. The differences in pricing across the perfumes could have been influenced by factors such as production costs, perceived market demand, and the individual appeal of each fragrance.
By 1994, the prices for the 0.5 oz parfum sprays had decreased slightly, reflecting a shift in the market or a strategic adjustment by Estée Lauder. White Linen remained at $8.50, unchanged from its 1980 price. Pavilion saw a reduction to $7.50, and Celadon dropped to $6.50. The price adjustments for Pavilion and Celadon indicated a continued effort to remain competitive and accessible, possibly due to their diminished popularity compared to White Linen. These price changes highlighted the evolving dynamics within the fragrance market and the impact of consumer preferences on pricing strategies.
Popularity of White Linen:
Estée Lauder's The New Romantics Collection was initially envisioned as an adventurous exploration of fragrance layering, reflecting the trend of combining multiple scents to create a unique, personalized olfactory experience. White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion were each crafted to interact harmoniously, allowing women to experiment with different combinations and express their individuality through scent. However, despite the innovative concept, White Linen quickly emerged as the standout success of the line, eclipsing its companions and becoming the focal point of the collection.
As White Linen gained popularity, it became clear that it was the true winner among the trio. The fragrance resonated strongly with consumers, leading Estée Lauder to pivot its focus solely toward this successful product. By 1985, the two other fragrances, Celadon and Pavilion, were described as "moribund" in comparison, indicating they were struggling to maintain relevance and appeal in the marketplace.
In 1986, Bob Barnes, then president of Estée Lauder USA, acknowledged a concern that White Linen was being perceived as a summer fragrance, potentially limiting its appeal throughout the year. To counter this perception and reinforce its versatility, the company adopted a new tagline: "White Linen, a crisp, refreshing fragrance from Estée Lauder to live in all summer long, all year long." This strategic move aimed to broaden the fragrance's appeal, emphasizing its suitability for any season.
Ultimately, White Linen proved to be the enduring success of The New Romantics Collection, while Celadon and Pavilion were discontinued around 1994. The preference for a single, distinct fragrance over a layering system may have contributed to this outcome. Women may have favored the simplicity of a singular, well-defined scent rather than the complexity of combining multiple perfumes. White Linen's ability to capture and maintain consumer interest ensured its lasting presence, while the concept of layering multiple fragrances, despite its initial allure, did not resonate as strongly in the long term.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Pavilion is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. "Intricate and adventurous hints of the exotic and the unusual. Warm mossy spring spice notes combined with tuberose, mimosa and narcissus."
- Top notes: aldehydes, narcissus, mimosa
- Middle notes: tuberose, violet, orange blossom and jasmine
- Base notes: amber, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, spices
Scent Profile:
As you encounter Pavilion, the top notes offer a captivating first impression that sets the stage for the fragrance's complex journey. The aldehydes introduce a sparkling, almost effervescent quality that immediately invigorates the senses, creating an airy, clean sensation that feels like a breath of fresh air. This initial burst is layered with the delicate, honeyed scent of narcissus—a floral note that brings a lush, green, and slightly animalic richness, reminiscent of a blooming garden in spring. The mimosa adds a soft, velvety texture, infusing the top notes with a subtle, powdery sweetness that evokes the comforting embrace of a sunlit afternoon.
As you move into the heart of Pavilion, the middle notes unfold with a deep, opulent richness. The tuberose emerges as a powerful, intoxicating floral note, exuding a creamy, almost heady sweetness that is both enchanting and assertive. It’s as if you’re enveloped in a cloud of luxurious, exotic blooms. This is beautifully complemented by the violet, which introduces a delicate, slightly green floral undertone, adding a sophisticated and soft nuance that balances the tuberose’s intensity. The orange blossom adds a radiant, citrusy brightness, infusing the heart with a fresh, sunny character that’s both uplifting and elegant. Jasmine rounds out the bouquet with its rich, sensual floral notes, offering a warm, exotic touch that enhances the overall depth and allure of the fragrance.
As Pavilion evolves, the base notes bring a sense of grounding and warmth. The amber provides a golden, resinous quality that’s both warm and slightly sweet, creating a cozy, enveloping sensation that lingers. Sandalwood adds a creamy, smooth, and slightly woody aroma, which blends seamlessly with the amber to create a rich, velvety base. The patchouli introduces a deep, earthy complexity with its spicy, woody nuances, adding a hint of intrigue and depth. Oakmoss contributes a mossy, green richness, evoking the scent of a forest floor, which adds an elegant, natural touch to the base. Finally, the spices bring a subtle, aromatic warmth that ties everything together, adding an adventurous, exotic flair that enhances the fragrance’s overall complexity and allure.
Fate of the Fragrance:
When Pavilion by Estée Lauder was discontinued around 1994, it marked the end of an era for a fragrance that had once captivated with its intricate blend of floral and oriental notes. This decision to discontinue often reflects broader changes in market trends and consumer preferences. In the early 1990s, the fragrance industry was experiencing a shift towards fresher, lighter scents, which contrasted sharply with the rich, complex compositions that characterized perfumes like Pavilion. The decision to phase out such a distinctive fragrance likely stemmed from evolving tastes that favored more minimalist and contemporary styles. Despite its discontinuation, Pavilion's rich legacy endures through its unique olfactory profile—a testament to the intricate artistry of 1970s perfumery.
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