Youth Dew by Estee Lauder c1953

In 1953, Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" entered a fragrance market traditionally dominated by French perfumes, known for their luxurious floral and aldehydic compositions, often reserved for special occasions. This era was marked by iconic scents like Chanel No. 5 and Guerlain's Shalimar, epitomizing elegance and sophistication. However, "Youth Dew," created by IFF perfumers Josephine Catapano and Ernest "Mr. Nose" Shiftan, brought something refreshingly different to the table. Unlike the prevailing trends, it was introduced as a bath oil that could also serve as a perfume, catering to a more everyday use.

During this period, American women generally did not wear fragrance every day. However, bath oils were a common part of their daily routines. Estée Lauder cleverly capitalized on this habit by introducing "Youth Dew" as both a bath oil and a perfume. This dual functionality made the product particularly appealing, as it could be seamlessly integrated into everyday life. By positioning "Youth Dew" as a versatile product suitable for daily use, not just special occasions, Lauder revolutionized the market. This strategy allowed women to indulge in luxury fragrance on their own terms, effectively democratizing perfume and making it accessible for everyday enjoyment.

The name "Youth Dew" was carefully chosen to evoke a sense of freshness, vitality, and rejuvenation—qualities synonymous with youth. The word "dew" conjures images of morning freshness and natural beauty, suggesting a fragrance that is both delicate and invigorating. For the women of the 1950s, "Youth Dew" resonated with a desire for renewal and the allure of maintaining a youthful essence, not just in appearance but in spirit.

The fragrance's introduction marked a significant shift in the perfume industry. By encouraging women to buy it for themselves, "Youth Dew" broke away from the traditional notion that perfume was a luxury item to be gifted. This approach resonated with the growing sense of independence and empowerment among women in the post-war era. The fragrance quickly became a symbol of self-pampering and personal luxury, a revolutionary concept at the time.

The imagery and emotions evoked by the name "Youth Dew" are those of freshness, rejuvenation, and an everlasting bloom. It evokes the picture of dewy mornings, vibrant flowers, and the optimism of a new day. This made "Youth Dew" not just a unique name for a perfume but also an emblematic product of its time, appealing to the evolving tastes and aspirations of women. By tapping into the daily rituals of women and presenting fragrance as an accessible luxury, "Youth Dew" paved the way for a new era in the fragrance industry, redefining how women interacted with scent.

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder c1978

 In 1978, the world was captivated by a fascination with the exotic and the mysterious, particularly as it related to Eastern cultures. This period saw a burgeoning interest in themes that evoked luxury, mystique, and the allure of distant lands, often referred to as "Oriental" in the context of art, fashion, and fragrance. The launch of Estee Lauder's Cinnabar came at a time when cultural depictions of the Orient were popular in various forms of media, including film. Movies like "The Man Who Would Be King" (1975) and "The Thief of Baghdad" (1978) indulged in romanticized portrayals of Eastern locales, contributing to a broader cultural trend that embraced the mystique and opulence of these settings.

Estee Lauder's choice of the name "Cinnabar" for her new fragrance was deeply symbolic and aligned with this cultural fascination. Cinnabar is a bright red mineral that has been historically used to produce the pigment vermilion, a color often associated with wealth, power, and the exotic in many Eastern cultures. The mineral itself, a form of mercury sulfide, has been used in traditional Chinese and Japanese art and decoration, symbolizing both beauty and danger due to its toxic properties. The name "Cinnabar" thus evoked a rich tapestry of associations: the luxurious allure of the Orient, the vibrant and potent nature of the pigment, and the sense of something rare and precious.

The choice of this name also connected to the perfume's sensory profile. Created by the talented perfumers Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano, Cinnabar was designed to capture the exoticism and intensity of Oriental fragrances. It featured a rich blend of spices, florals, and amber, creating a warm, inviting, and somewhat mysterious scent. The perfume's composition was meant to evoke the opulent and complex aromas associated with Eastern markets and spices, much like the imagery of cinnabar as a rare and luxurious substance.

In the context of the late 1970s, Cinnabar fit seamlessly into a cultural moment that celebrated the exotic and the luxurious. The perfume capitalized on the public's fascination with Oriental aesthetics, offering a sensory escape to distant lands filled with spice, warmth, and intrigue. The decision to pivot from the planned Soft Youth Dew to Cinnabar demonstrated Estee Lauder's keen awareness of market trends and her ability to adapt quickly to changing consumer desires. By choosing the name "Cinnabar," Estee Lauder not only aligned her fragrance with the era's fascination with the Orient but also imbued it with a sense of mystery and allure that resonated deeply with the zeitgeist of the time.