Knowing by Estee Lauder c1988

The choice of the name "Knowing" for the Estee Lauder fragrance launched in 1988 is a deliberate and evocative one, crafted to convey a sense of sophistication, confidence, and self-assurance. The name itself suggests a deep, intrinsic understanding and awareness—qualities that are often associated with maturity, experience, and a certain worldly wisdom. By choosing "Knowing" as the name, Estee Lauder aimed to appeal to a woman who is not just aware of herself and her desires but is also assertive and confident in expressing them. This is a woman who understands her own worth, who has a keen sense of the world around her, and who makes choices with deliberation and clarity.

The word "Knowing" evokes a range of images and emotions. It conjures up a vision of a woman who is poised and composed, who carries herself with an air of quiet confidence and elegance. This is not a woman who is easily swayed by trends or external opinions; instead, she has a strong sense of her own style and identity. The name implies an individual who is insightful, perceptive, and wise—someone who has learned from her experiences and uses that knowledge to navigate her world with grace and certainty. There's an element of mystery and allure in the word "Knowing," suggesting a depth of character and a rich inner life that may not be immediately apparent but is undeniably compelling.

The fragrance "Knowing" was created by the renowned perfumers Jean Kerléo and Elie Roger (Firmenich), which underscores the expertise and artistry behind its formulation. Estee Lauder's description of the fragrance as "a fragrance for the 21st century" speaks to its timeless appeal and modern sensibility. It is designed for a woman who is forward-thinking and progressive, yet deeply rooted in her values and principles.

The marketing campaign for "Knowing" was a pivotal moment for Estee Lauder, aiming to revitalize and modernize the brand's image. The choice of Paulina Porizkova, a stunning and accomplished model who transitioned from her role as a spokesperson for Revlon to Estee Lauder, was significant. Porizkova embodied the qualities of the "Knowing" woman—sexy, confident, and sophisticated. The advertisements portrayed her in a manner that was both elegant and alluring, capturing the essence of the fragrance and the type of woman it was designed for.

Overall, the name "Knowing" and its accompanying campaign reflect a strategic and thoughtful approach by Estee Lauder to position the fragrance as an emblem of modern femininity—an expression of self-assuredness, sophistication, and timeless elegance. It is a celebration of the woman who knows herself, knows what she wants, and moves through the world with confidence and grace.

"Knowing," launched in late April 1988, holds a special place in Estee Lauder's fragrance portfolio as it represented the brand's first foray into the chypre category, particularly noteworthy as a non-alcoholic fragrance. The chypre genre, characterized by its complex structure and rich, earthy notes, marked a departure from the brand's earlier offerings and showcased Estee Lauder's commitment to innovation and diversity in fragrance creation. The development of "Knowing" was a collaborative effort with the renowned essential oil house Firmenich, which was a rare collaboration for Estee Lauder, as the company had primarily worked with International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. (IFF) for their fragrances, including the iconic Youth Dew.

The decision to collaborate with Firmenich, one of the world's leading fragrance and flavor companies, was a deliberate choice aimed at creating a unique and sophisticated scent that stood out in the market. Firmenich brought a wealth of expertise and a distinctive approach to fragrance development, which complemented Estee Lauder's vision for "Knowing." The result was a fragrance that was not only modern and elegant but also rich in character and depth, appealing to a sophisticated audience.

The launch of "Knowing" was strategically planned and executed, debuting late in April 1988 across 168 retail doors in 15 major cities. This selective rollout was part of a carefully crafted marketing strategy to build anticipation and exclusivity around the fragrance. The choice of cities and locations was likely influenced by the demographic profile of potential customers, aiming to reach a discerning audience that would appreciate the fragrance's complexity and luxury.

By the fall of 1988, "Knowing" had expanded its availability both nationally and internationally, reflecting the brand's confidence in the fragrance's appeal and its potential to resonate with a global audience. This international expansion underscored Estee Lauder's commitment to establishing "Knowing" as a key player in the high-end fragrance market. The timing of the launch, coupled with a robust marketing campaign featuring the elegant and sophisticated Paulina Porizkova, helped to position "Knowing" as a signature scent for the modern, confident woman.

Overall, "Knowing" represents a significant milestone in Estee Lauder's history, not only for its introduction of a new fragrance category to the brand but also for its collaboration with a new partner in Firmenich. This fragrance embodies Estee Lauder's dedication to quality, innovation, and an understanding of the evolving tastes and preferences of their clientele.

Leonard Lauder's reflection on the feedback they received about Estee Lauder fragrances reveals a keen awareness of the evolving preferences of their customers. He acknowledged that some found their fragrances too strong, which inspired the creation of "Knowing"—a fragrance designed to be more subtle. This move was strategic, aimed at attracting new customers without cannibalizing the existing fan base of their other fragrances. The result was a fragrance that expanded the brand's reach and diversified its portfolio, catering to those seeking a less intense olfactory experience while maintaining the brand's reputation for quality and sophistication.

Jean Leaman, the senior vice president for creative marketing at Estee Lauder, emphasized that the brand's fragrances generally share a familial trait—a distinctive quality that makes them instantly recognizable as Lauder creations. This consistency in fragrance identity has been a hallmark of the brand, contributing to its strong market presence. However, Leaman pointed out that "Knowing" represented a departure from this tradition. Unlike previous offerings, "Knowing" did not carry the same olfactory signature that defined other Lauder fragrances. This distinctiveness set it apart, appealing to those who sought something different yet equally refined.

The inspiration behind "Knowing" adds a layer of romanticism and allure to its narrative. Evelyn Lauder, while on a holiday trip in the south of France, was captivated by a floral scent emanating from a garden below her balcony. Her curiosity led her to discover the pittosporum flower, whose intoxicating fragrance inspired her. Evelyn Lauder recognized the potential of this scent as the heart of a new fragrance, which would become "Knowing." The pittosporum flower's deep, warm aroma is the centerpiece of the fragrance, orchestrated in a way that it becomes almost palpable, creating an experience that is both sensual and tactile.

The story of "Knowing" and its development highlights the thoughtful and innovative approach that Estee Lauder took in creating this fragrance. By addressing feedback, exploring new olfactory territories, and drawing inspiration from personal experiences, the brand crafted a fragrance that was not only different but also deeply resonant with a broader audience. "Knowing" stands as a testament to the brand's ability to evolve and adapt, embracing new challenges while staying true to the essence of what makes an Estee Lauder fragrance special.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a modern floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a sparkling aldehydic top with the warm, sweet note of pittosporum and fruity notes of ripe plum. Followed by an opulent floral heart comprised of four different varieties of jasmine including Grasse jasmine grandiflorum mingling with lily and heady tuberose. These notes are followed by a smattering of rich spices and aromatic richness, resting on a warm, luxurious woodsy base of sandalwood from Ceylon and grassy vetiver from Haiti.

"Modern floral chypre. Top note blends floralcy of mimosa, pittosporum, tuberose and rose with fruity accents and aromatic richness. Body warms with rich spices, jasmine, lily, and the smooth woodiness of patchouli and orris. Sensual background of vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss and amber."

• Top notes: aldehydes, pittosporum, davana, plum and melon 
• Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, pittosporum, tuberose, mimosa, orris, patchouli and bay 
• Base notes: oakmoss, amber, sandalwood, vetiver and musk

Scent Profile:

Top Notes:

As I experience the opening of Knowing, the scent begins with a bright and sparkling burst of aldehydes. These aldehydes give off a crisp, effervescent quality that immediately lifts the fragrance, creating a sense of lightness and energy. They have a slightly soapy and metallic character, reminiscent of freshly laundered linens, providing a clean and sophisticated start to the perfume.

Accompanying the aldehydes is the unique and sweet aroma of pittosporum. This flower, often found in coastal regions, has a rich, honeyed scent that is both floral and slightly resinous. It adds a warm, enveloping sweetness that balances the sharpness of the aldehydes, giving the fragrance an intriguing depth right from the start.

The fruity notes begin to unfold with the scent of davana, which has a rich, sweet, and somewhat herbaceous aroma. This note is known for its complex character, blending fruity, woody, and slightly boozy nuances. It adds an exotic twist to the fragrance, hinting at mystery and allure. The plum note brings a lush, ripe sweetness, with a deep, juicy aroma that is both rich and slightly tart. This succulent fruitiness adds a mouthwatering quality, making the opening both inviting and intriguing.

The fresh, juicy scent of melon follows, contributing a light, aquatic sweetness. Melon has a delicate and refreshing aroma that adds a watery, cooling effect to the fragrance, balancing the richer, more intense notes. Together, these fruity and floral top notes create a vibrant and dynamic introduction, setting the stage for the opulent heart of the fragrance.

Middle Notes:

As the top notes settle, the heart of Knowing reveals a lush and opulent bouquet of florals, beginning with the exquisite scent of jasmine. The fragrance features four different varieties of jasmine, including the renowned Grasse jasmine grandiflorum. This jasmine blend offers a rich, heady floral aroma, with an intoxicating sweetness and a touch of exoticism. The jasmine is lush and full-bodied, adding depth and sensuality to the heart of the fragrance.

The scent of lily of the valley emerges next, with its delicate, green floral aroma. This flower adds a fresh, sweet, and slightly watery note, bringing a sense of purity and innocence to the composition. Its lightness contrasts beautifully with the richness of the jasmine, creating a harmonious balance.

Pittosporum appears again in the heart, reinforcing its sweet, honeyed floral character and adding continuity to the fragrance's evolution. The heady scent of tuberose follows, with its creamy, intoxicating floral aroma. Tuberose is lush and opulent, with a rich, buttery quality that envelops the senses, adding a luxurious and slightly narcotic depth to the heart.

The bright, sunny scent of mimosa adds a soft, powdery floral note, with a hint of green freshness. Mimosa's delicate aroma brings a touch of warmth and cheerfulness, lightening the composition and adding a playful element. The inclusion of orris adds an earthy, powdery quality, with a subtle, woody undertone. Orris root enhances the floral heart with its refined and elegant scent, providing a smooth and sophisticated backdrop.

Patchouli brings a rich, earthy, and slightly spicy aroma, with a woody and balsamic undertone. Patchouli's presence adds depth and complexity to the heart, grounding the floral notes with its warm, earthy character. The subtle spiciness of bay adds a touch of aromatic warmth, with a fresh, herbal quality that enhances the overall richness and complexity of the fragrance.

Base Notes:

As the fragrance dries down, the base notes provide a warm, luxurious foundation that lingers beautifully on the skin. The rich, resinous scent of oakmoss is prominent, adding a slightly earthy, woody aroma with a hint of bitterness. Oakmoss gives the fragrance its chypre character, adding depth and complexity with its unique, mossy scent.

The warm, golden aroma of amber adds a sweet, resinous note, with a slightly powdery and balsamic quality. Amber's presence enhances the overall richness of the fragrance, creating a sense of warmth and sensuality. The smooth, creamy scent of sandalwood follows, with its warm, woody aroma. Sandalwood adds a soft, velvety texture to the base, providing a soothing and comforting finish.

Vetiver brings a dry, grassy, and slightly smoky note, with a woody and earthy undertone. Vetiver's presence adds a sophisticated, slightly masculine quality to the fragrance, grounding it with its rich, earthy aroma. Finally, the soft, animalic scent of musk adds a sensual and intimate quality, with its warm and slightly powdery aroma. Musk's presence enhances the fragrance's longevity, allowing the scent to linger on the skin.

Knowing is a beautifully crafted fragrance that combines a rich array of floral, fruity, and woody notes with a warm, luxurious base. The scent is captivating and sophisticated, enveloping the wearer in a warm and enchanting aura that lingers beautifully on the skin.

Bottle:

The presentation of "Knowing" by Estee Lauder is as sophisticated and elegant as the fragrance itself, housed in a stunning lead crystal flacon designed by Ira Levy. The bottle's design exudes luxury and refinement, its substantial weight and the clarity of the crystal highlighting the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship. The thick, chunky form of the flacon is both modern and timeless, reflecting the fragrance's blend of contemporary sophistication and classic allure.

A distinctive feature of the bottle is the gold cord wrapped around its neck, adding a touch of opulence and attention to detail. This decorative element not only enhances the visual appeal of the flacon but also serves as a subtle nod to the fragrance's rich, warm character. The cord's golden hue complements the deep, amber tones of the perfume inside, creating a harmonious and visually striking package.

The overall design of the flacon, from its crystal clarity to the gold accents, perfectly encapsulates the essence of "Knowing." It conveys a sense of luxury and sophistication, appealing to the discerning tastes of its intended audience. The presentation is not just a container for the fragrance but an integral part of the experience, elevating the sense of elegance and refinement that "Knowing" embodies. The design by Ira Levy ensures that the flacon is a beautiful object in its own right, worthy of display and appreciation long after the fragrance has been enjoyed.

When "Knowing" by Estee Lauder was first launched, it made a bold statement not only through its distinctive scent but also through its pricing, positioning itself as a premium fragrance within the brand's lineup. The one-ounce bottle of parfum, priced at $300, was Estee Lauder's most expensive fragrance at the time, surpassing even the luxurious "Private Collection," which retailed for $150 an ounce. This price point underscored "Knowing" as a high-end, exclusive offering, appealing to a discerning clientele willing to invest in quality and prestige.

The parfum was also available in a quarter-ounce spray, elegantly housed in a gold metal canister, which retailed for $60. This packaging option provided a more accessible entry point for those interested in the luxury of "Knowing" without committing to the full ounce, while still maintaining a sense of opulence and exclusivity.

The eau de parfum variant of "Knowing" was presented in clear, rippled glass bottles topped with sleek black matte caps, echoing the sophistication and modernity of the fragrance itself. The pricing for these bottles was more varied, catering to different preferences and budgets. The 2.5-ounce spray was offered at $50, a price point that balanced accessibility with the allure of luxury. The 1.7-ounce splash bottle was priced at $40, and the 1-ounce spray was available for $35, providing options for different levels of commitment and usage.

Additionally, Estee Lauder offered a special set priced at $50, which included the 2.5-ounce eau de parfum spray and a wide, clear plastic bracelet designed after the "Knowing" bottle. This bracelet, worn by beauty advisers, was not just an accessory but a marketing tool, reinforcing the fragrance's unique design and brand identity. This set served as both a gift option and a promotional piece, allowing customers to enjoy the fragrance while also experiencing a tangible connection to the brand's visual aesthetics.

Altogether, the pricing and packaging of "Knowing" reflected its status as a luxurious and refined fragrance, with thoughtful options that catered to both committed fragrance enthusiasts and those new to the scent.

Fate of the Fragrance:

As of 2021, "Knowing" by Estee Lauder continues to be a beloved part of the brand's fragrance lineup, available for purchase on the Estee Lauder website. Despite the passage of time, the fragrance has retained its allure and appeal, offering a timeless scent profile that resonates with its loyal customer base. However, like many classic fragrances, "Knowing" has undergone reformulation to comply with modern regulations, specifically those set by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).

The reformulation process, which began around 2010, was necessary to meet IFRA guidelines, which aim to ensure the safety and sustainability of fragrance ingredients. As a result, several of the original components of "Knowing" were either removed or replaced. Notably absent in the reformulated version are aldehydes, which once contributed to the fragrance's distinctive crisp and sparkling opening. Aldehydes are often used in perfumery to create a fresh and effervescent quality, adding a sophisticated lift to the scent.

Another missing component is davana, a sweet, herbaceous note with fruity undertones that provided a unique aromatic richness to the fragrance. The absence of melon, which added a subtle fruity sweetness, is also notable. Melon's light and refreshing character helped balance the deeper, more opulent notes of the fragrance, offering a sense of brightness and clarity.

The reformulation also saw the removal of lily of the valley, a delicate floral note known for its fresh, green, and slightly sweet scent. Lily of the valley contributed to the floral heart of the original "Knowing," adding a soft, ethereal quality. Orris, derived from the iris root, which provided a powdery, floral, and slightly woody undertone, was also removed. Orris is often prized for its luxurious, velvety texture and its ability to enhance the depth and complexity of a fragrance.

Bay, another omitted note, offered a spicy, aromatic richness, while musk, known for its sensual and warm characteristics, added a smooth and lasting base. The removal of musk, in particular, marked a significant change, as musk is often used to anchor a fragrance and provide a lingering, enveloping quality.

Despite these changes, "Knowing" continues to evoke the sophisticated and confident spirit for which it was originally known. The reformulated fragrance maintains the essence of the original while adhering to contemporary standards, allowing a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts to experience its unique blend of floral, fruity, and chypre elements. The continued production and availability of "Knowing" on the Estee Lauder website attest to its enduring appeal and its place as a signature scent within the Estee Lauder portfolio.

Notes listed on the Lauder website (2021):

• Top notes: rose, tuberose, mimosa, plum, pittosporum
• Middle notes: jasmine, patchouli, orange flower
• Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, amber

All rich woods and luxurious florals with luscious fruity accents. Worldly and warm. Intensely feminine.

The scent profile of "Knowing" by Estee Lauder, as listed on the brand's website in 2021, reveals a sophisticated and richly layered fragrance, designed to evoke an aura of worldly elegance and timeless femininity. The fragrance opens with a beautifully orchestrated blend of floral and fruity notes, creating a captivating and inviting introduction.

At the top, the fragrance greets you with the soft, romantic essence of rose, a classic floral note that provides a timeless elegance. This is complemented by the intoxicating richness of tuberose, which adds a creamy, exotic quality, enhancing the floral bouquet with its lush, almost narcotic scent. Mimosa, with its delicate, powdery sweetness, adds a soft, airy touch, creating a light and uplifting aspect to the opening. The fruity accents of plum bring a juicy, succulent richness that adds depth and a hint of sweetness, balancing the florals with a touch of fruitiness. The inclusion of pittosporum, a unique floral note, contributes a fresh, green facet, reminiscent of a garden in full bloom.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes reveal a warm and opulent floral composition. Jasmine, known for its heady and sensual aroma, dominates this phase, providing a lush and deeply floral character. Patchouli, with its earthy and slightly woody scent, adds an intriguing contrast, giving the fragrance a grounding, sophisticated undertone. The inclusion of orange flower imparts a bright, citrusy sweetness, enhancing the floral heart with its uplifting and fresh quality. This middle phase is where the fragrance's luxurious and intensely feminine nature truly shines, with the florals and patchouli creating a harmonious blend that is both rich and elegant.

In the dry down, "Knowing" settles into a warm and enveloping base, characterized by rich woods and soft, sensual notes. Oakmoss, a quintessential component of chypre fragrances, provides a mossy, earthy depth, adding a touch of classic sophistication. Vetiver, known for its smoky and woody nuances, enhances the base with a grassy, slightly earthy aroma, adding complexity and an element of natural elegance. Sandalwood, with its creamy and smooth texture, introduces a comforting warmth, making the fragrance feel cozy and inviting. The final touch of amber brings a soft, resinous sweetness, enveloping the scent in a golden glow that lingers on the skin, adding a subtle sensuality and warmth.

As a whole, "Knowing" by Estee Lauder is a fragrance that masterfully combines rich woods, luxurious florals, and luscious fruity accents, creating a scent that is both worldly and warm. It is a fragrance that exudes confidence and sophistication, designed for the woman who is deeply in tune with herself and the world around her. The scent is intensely feminine, enveloping the wearer in a warm, inviting aura that is both timeless and contemporary.