Youth Dew by Estee Lauder c1953

In 1953, Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" entered a fragrance market traditionally dominated by French perfumes, known for their luxurious floral and aldehydic compositions, often reserved for special occasions. This era was marked by iconic scents like Chanel No. 5 and Guerlain's Shalimar, epitomizing elegance and sophistication. However, "Youth Dew," created by IFF perfumers Josephine Catapano and Ernest "Mr. Nose" Shiftan, brought something refreshingly different to the table. Unlike the prevailing trends, it was introduced as a bath oil that could also serve as a perfume, catering to a more everyday use.

During this period, American women generally did not wear fragrance every day. However, bath oils were a common part of their daily routines. Estée Lauder cleverly capitalized on this habit by introducing "Youth Dew" as both a bath oil and a perfume. This dual functionality made the product particularly appealing, as it could be seamlessly integrated into everyday life. By positioning "Youth Dew" as a versatile product suitable for daily use, not just special occasions, Lauder revolutionized the market. This strategy allowed women to indulge in luxury fragrance on their own terms, effectively democratizing perfume and making it accessible for everyday enjoyment.

The name "Youth Dew" was carefully chosen to evoke a sense of freshness, vitality, and rejuvenation—qualities synonymous with youth. The word "dew" conjures images of morning freshness and natural beauty, suggesting a fragrance that is both delicate and invigorating. For the women of the 1950s, "Youth Dew" resonated with a desire for renewal and the allure of maintaining a youthful essence, not just in appearance but in spirit.

The fragrance's introduction marked a significant shift in the perfume industry. By encouraging women to buy it for themselves, "Youth Dew" broke away from the traditional notion that perfume was a luxury item to be gifted. This approach resonated with the growing sense of independence and empowerment among women in the post-war era. The fragrance quickly became a symbol of self-pampering and personal luxury, a revolutionary concept at the time.

The imagery and emotions evoked by the name "Youth Dew" are those of freshness, rejuvenation, and an everlasting bloom. It evokes the picture of dewy mornings, vibrant flowers, and the optimism of a new day. This made "Youth Dew" not just a unique name for a perfume but also an emblematic product of its time, appealing to the evolving tastes and aspirations of women. By tapping into the daily rituals of women and presenting fragrance as an accessible luxury, "Youth Dew" paved the way for a new era in the fragrance industry, redefining how women interacted with scent.

Fragrance Composition: 

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a fruity, spicy top, followed by an exotic, spicy floral heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base. Basically it is an exotic, warm, balsamic, oriental with rich floral notes.

• Top notes: spice oils, bergamot, peach, aldehydes, orange
• Middle notes: wallflower, spicy carnation, cloves, cassie, ylang ylang, cinnamon, rose, orchid, jasmine
• Base notes: amber, Peru balsam, tolu balsam, benzoin, vanilla, olibanum, patchouli, oakmoss, frankincense, musk, vetiver, civet

In a 1961 newspaper article, the luxurious composition of Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" perfume was vividly described, highlighting the extensive and exquisite range of ingredients used to create this iconic scent. Each ounce of "Youth Dew" contained the essence of 9,600 jasmine flowers sourced from France, a notable inclusion given that jasmine absolute was priced at an impressive $700 per pound at the time. This hefty price tag underscored the premium quality and rich aroma of the jasmine used.

Additionally, the fragrance incorporated 480 roses from France, known for their delicate and refined scent, alongside 80 roses of a different variety from Morocco, contributing a unique floral complexity. The inclusion of 1,750 orange blossoms further enriched the fragrance with a fresh, citrusy note, while 60 tuberoses added a lush, creamy aspect to the scent profile.

The perfume also featured orris absolute, extracted from iris roots cultivated on 15 square feet of plantation near Florence. Orris absolute is highly prized for its warm, powdery aroma and is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. The peel of half a bergamot from Calabria brought a bright, zesty touch, complementing the other citrus elements. The fragrance was also enriched with the hand-scraped peel of 15 oranges, adding a vibrant and fresh layer to the scent.

Exotic and warm notes were introduced through sandalwood and cardamom oils from India, which added depth and a subtle spiciness to the blend. Estragon oil, derived from Spanish tarragon leaves, contributed a herbaceous, slightly anise-like nuance. The perfume's base was anchored by three animal fixatives, traditional components used to prolong the scent's longevity and add richness. Additionally, 35 laboratory-made aromatic chemicals were employed to enhance and stabilize the fragrance, ensuring a harmonious and long-lasting scent experience.

This intricate combination of natural and synthetic ingredients created a unique and luxurious fragrance profile, making "Youth Dew" a favorite choice among women at the time. The detailed description of its components not only highlighted the perfume's complexity but also its luxurious and high-quality nature, setting it apart in the fragrance market of the early 1960s.

To understand the equivalent cost of jasmine absolute in today's money, we can use an inflation calculator. In 1961, jasmine absolute was priced at $700 per pound. Adjusted for inflation to 2024, this amount would be approximately $7,292.40. This calculation underscores the premium nature of "Youth Dew," which combined high-quality, costly ingredients from around the world, making it a truly luxurious fragrance both in its original time and by today's standards.

Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013:

"Clove was also present in the "Mellis accord", which was a widely used base in spicy oriental fragrances including Youth Dew, Opium and Coco. The mellis accord, which makes up an important part of the fragrance here incorporates amyl salicylate in addition to benzyl salicylate, with the patchouli and hydroxycitronellal (which has a linden blossom-like, sweet, green, radiant odor), spices, woods and coumarin. Since then restrictions have been placed on some of these, so it will have been modified."

Scent Profile:

As you encounter the fragrance of Youth Dew, imagine the journey beginning with the vibrant and complex top notes. First, you experience the rich, enveloping scent of spice oils—an aromatic blend that hints at warm, exotic spices, evoking images of a bustling bazaar filled with aromatic treasures. As the initial spiciness unfolds, bergamot introduces a bright, citrusy freshness that contrasts beautifully with the spices, adding a zesty sparkle to the fragrance. The scent of ripe peach emerges next, offering a sweet, juicy quality that complements the citrus with its lush fruitiness. Aldehydes contribute a crisp, slightly soapy freshness that lifts the fragrance, enhancing its complexity. Orange adds a vibrant, tangy note that interlaces with the peach, infusing the composition with a cheerful brightness.

Transitioning into the heart of Youth Dew, you are enveloped by an exotic and spicy floral bouquet. The wallflower presents a subtly sweet, honeyed aroma, adding a touch of vintage elegance. Spicy carnation introduces a peppery, warm richness that mingles with the florals, adding depth and intrigue. Cloves add a warm, aromatic spiciness that enhances the overall complexity, bringing an almost holiday-like warmth to the fragrance. Cassie provides a sweet, somewhat fruity floral nuance that enriches the heart, while ylang ylang offers its creamy, exotic, and somewhat sensual floral scent. Cinnamon weaves a warm, spicy sweetness through the heart, enhancing the richness of the other notes. Rose brings a classic, romantic floral aroma that blends seamlessly with the more exotic elements. Orchid adds a touch of sophistication with its subtle, creamy, and slightly vanilla-like scent, while jasmine contributes its lush, heady floral notes, enhancing the overall opulence of the bouquet.

As the fragrance settles into its base notes, a warm, balsamic richness envelops you. Amber exudes a warm, resinous sweetness with a hint of earthiness, creating a cozy, enveloping sensation. Peru balsam adds a rich, vanilla-like sweetness with a hint of woodiness, enhancing the warmth of the base. Tolu balsam brings a smooth, slightly spicy and resinous quality that deepens the base. Benzoin adds a sweet, vanilla-like richness with a hint of balsamic depth, further warming the composition. Vanilla offers its creamy, sweet, and comforting aroma, adding a touch of indulgence. Olibanum (frankincense) contributes a resinous, slightly smoky depth that adds an air of mystique. Patchouli introduces a rich, earthy, and slightly woody note that grounds the fragrance with its depth. Oakmoss adds a lush, green, and slightly woody aroma, giving a sense of depth and forest-like richness. Frankincense provides a hint of smokiness and spirituality, adding a layer of complexity. Musk adds a warm, sensual quality that enhances the fragrance’s allure. Vetiver contributes a dry, woody, and slightly smoky note, adding a grounding effect. Civet imparts a rich, animalic warmth that adds a touch of exoticism and complexity to the base.

Together, these layers create a rich, exotic, and warm oriental fragrance that is both captivating and comforting, inviting you to experience its depth and complexity with every wear.

Bottles:

By the 1960s, Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" had expanded beyond its initial bath oil format to become a comprehensive and luxurious product line, catering to various facets of a woman's daily beauty routine. This diversification allowed women to experience the iconic fragrance in multiple forms, making "Youth Dew" not just a scent but a holistic sensory experience.

The Eau de Parfum Spray offered a convenient and concentrated version of the fragrance, perfect for daily wear. Its portability and ease of application made it a popular choice, allowing women to carry a touch of luxury with them wherever they went. The 1 oz Bath Oil, the original form of "Youth Dew," remained a cornerstone of the line. This versatile product could be used in the bath for a luxurious soak or applied directly to the skin, leaving a long-lasting, warm, and inviting fragrance.

Innovatively, the line included Perfumed Lingerie Discs, which could be placed in drawers or worn within clothing to impart the delightful scent of "Youth Dew" to lingerie and other garments. This subtle infusion of fragrance into everyday wear was a novel idea, adding an intimate and personal touch to the use of perfume.

The Creamy Milk Bath offered a rich, moisturizing bath experience, enveloping the user in the signature scent while nourishing the skin. Complementing this was the Coolspray Talc, a refreshing and fragrant powder that provided a light, cooling sensation, perfect for use after bathing or throughout the day to keep the skin feeling fresh and softly scented.

The Box of Three Soaps provided a practical yet luxurious option, allowing the fragrance to be incorporated into daily cleansing rituals. Each soap bar was infused with the rich, spicy floral scent of "Youth Dew," turning a simple shower into a pampering experience. The Dusting Powder, packaged with a soft puff, offered a classic way to apply fragrance while leaving the skin silky smooth. It was ideal for layering the scent or for use as a light, fragrant alternative to body lotion.

For those seeking a more intense experience, the 1/2 oz Parfum was available, offering the purest form of the fragrance. This parfum was perfect for special occasions or for those who preferred a more potent scent. The Creme Sachet Perfume provided a creamy, rich texture that could be applied to the pulse points, delivering a soft, lingering scent with a smooth feel.

Lastly, the Body Satinee was a luxurious body lotion that combined the fragrance with moisturizing properties, leaving the skin soft, supple, and beautifully scented. This product rounded out the line, providing a complete head-to-toe fragrance experience.

Together, these products created a cohesive and versatile fragrance wardrobe, allowing women to indulge in the scent of "Youth Dew" in various ways, from everyday essentials to special occasion indulgences. This extensive range showcased Estée Lauder's innovative approach to fragrance, offering women a myriad of options to integrate the beloved scent into all aspects of their lives.

The "Youth Dew" Bath Oil, a cornerstone of Estée Lauder's iconic fragrance line, was available in three convenient sizes: 1/2 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz. This variety allowed customers to choose the size that best suited their needs, whether they were new to the scent or devoted fans looking to indulge in a larger quantity. The bath oil could be used in various ways, from a luxurious addition to a relaxing bath to a fragrant body oil, making it a versatile and beloved product.

In 1968, Estée Lauder introduced a distinctive and charming packaging for the "Youth Dew" Eau de Parfum. Known as the boutique spray, this bottle featured a stylish blue bow wrapped around the center, adding a touch of elegance and femininity to the presentation. The blue bow became an iconic element, symbolizing the timeless and chic appeal of "Youth Dew." This packaging not only made the fragrance easily recognizable but also added a decorative element to a woman's vanity, making it a cherished piece in any perfume collection.

The boutique spray bottle was a reflection of the era's fashion-forward sensibilities, combining practicality with aesthetic appeal. It offered a convenient and sophisticated way for women to apply the fragrance, whether at home or on the go. This thoughtful design underscored Estée Lauder's commitment to creating products that were not only luxurious in scent but also visually appealing and user-friendly.

The "Youth Dew" line, with its variety of sizes and distinctive packaging, showcased the brand's innovative approach to fragrance marketing. By offering options that catered to different preferences and lifestyles, Estée Lauder ensured that "Youth Dew" remained a versatile and beloved choice among women, encapsulating both the elegance and vibrancy of the era.

A 1953 article highlighted Estée Lauder's innovative "Youth Dew" product line, emphasizing its comprehensive approach to head-to-toe beauty. The centerpiece of this line was the emollient Youth Dew bath oil, a luxurious product designed not just as a fragrance accessory, but also to maintain the skin's suppleness and smoothness. This bath oil was crafted to be more than just a scent—it offered a sensory experience that nourished the skin while enveloping the wearer in its rich, alluring aroma.

In addition to the bath oil, the line featured a bath lotion de sachet, specifically catered to those who preferred showers or sought an after-bath skin toner. This lotion, infused with the same lingering fragrance, was ideal for extending the "Youth Dew" experience beyond the bath, providing a light yet lasting scent that could be enjoyed throughout the day. The lotion's formulation aimed to refresh and tone the skin, making it a versatile addition to any beauty routine.

The "Youth Dew" product line also included a soap in a distinctive pale Fragonard blue, a nod to the luxurious and artistic tradition of French perfumery. This soap offered a delicate cleansing experience, imbuing the skin with a subtle hint of the signature "Youth Dew" scent. The inclusion of this color added a visual element of elegance, making the soap a visually appealing addition to any bathroom.

Rounding out the quartet was the velvety finish of the bath powder. This powder provided a soft, silky feel to the skin, enhancing the overall fragrance experience with its fine texture and soothing application. It served as a final touch in the bathing ritual, leaving the skin feeling smooth and delicately scented.

Among these products, the skin perfume stood out as the most concentrated form of "Youth Dew." Unlike the bath oil, the skin perfume contained the purest concentration of essences, designed to last longer and provide a more intense fragrance experience. This highly concentrated perfume was meant to be applied sparingly, allowing the wearer to enjoy the full depth and richness of the scent for an extended period. This made it a particularly luxurious option for those who desired a long-lasting and potent fragrance.

Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" line represented a significant shift in how women approached fragrance and personal care, offering a complete suite of products that combined beauty, skincare, and luxurious scent. Each product was carefully crafted to provide a unique aspect of the "Youth Dew" experience, making it a pioneering collection in the world of beauty and fragrance.

Compiling a comprehensive list of Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" products and their introduction dates involves delving into vintage newspaper and magazine articles. This painstaking research provides a valuable resource for collectors and enthusiasts who seek to date their "Youth Dew" items accurately. However, it's important to note that some products may have been introduced earlier than the documented dates, as records from that time may not always reflect the precise launch timeline. This guide, therefore, serves as a general reference, offering insights into the evolution of the "Youth Dew" line over the years.

The original "Youth Dew" Bath Oil, a revolutionary product launched in 1953, was the first in the line, setting the foundation for subsequent additions. This bath oil was initially marketed as a luxurious and emollient product that combined fragrance with skincare, a concept that resonated with consumers and led to the expansion of the line.

Following the success of the bath oil, Estée Lauder introduced the "Youth Dew" Eau de Parfum in the mid-1950s, allowing customers to enjoy the fragrance in a more traditional perfume format. This was a significant development, as it enabled women to wear the scent outside of the bathing experience, broadening its appeal.

By the late 1950s, the line had expanded to include the Bath Lotion de Sachet, designed for use after a shower or bath to tone the skin while imparting the signature scent. This product catered to the growing trend of multi-functional beauty products, offering both skincare benefits and fragrance in one.

In the early 1960s, the introduction of the "Youth Dew" soap in pale Fragonard blue added another layer to the collection. This soap not only provided a fragrant cleansing experience but also became a decorative item, reflecting the elegance associated with the "Youth Dew" brand.

The "Youth Dew" Dusting Powder, launched around the same time, offered a velvety finish that left the skin feeling soft and delicately scented. This product became a favorite for those who enjoyed a lighter, powdery application of fragrance, ideal for layering with other "Youth Dew" products.

The mid-1960s saw the addition of the "Youth Dew" Skin Perfume, the most concentrated form of the fragrance. This perfume offered a longer-lasting and more intense scent, catering to women who desired a more potent expression of the "Youth Dew" experience.

In 1968, the iconic "Youth Dew" Eau de Parfum boutique spray bottle with the distinctive blue bow was introduced, adding a stylish and modern element to the line. This packaging became a symbol of the brand, making the fragrance instantly recognizable.

The comprehensive list of "Youth Dew" products, derived from vintage articles, provides a useful timeline for collectors and enthusiasts. While some products may have been introduced earlier than documented, this guide offers a general framework for dating and understanding the evolution of the "Youth Dew" line. Estée Lauder's continuous innovation and expansion of the line reflect the enduring popularity and iconic status of "Youth Dew" in the world of fragrance.

The Youth Dew eau de parfum, bath oil and other bath products are still available, but most of the items below are discontinued.


The Youth Dew Products:

• 1951 Youth Dew Estoderm Cream
• 1953 Youth Dew Facial Cleanser
• 1953 Youth Dew Facial Mask
• 1953 Bath Oil
• 1953 Soap
• 1953 Estoderm Concentrate
• 1953 Talcum powder
• 1953 Lotion de Sachet
• 1953 Youth Dew Foundation
• 1953 Dusting Powder
• 1953 Bath Powder
• 1954 Youth Dew Emulsion
• 1954 Skin Lotion
• 1955 Lotion de Heat
• 1956 Youth Dew Face Powder
• 1958 Eau de Parfum
• 1958 Youth Dew Dewy Freshener
• 1958 Flowing Emulsion
• 1959 Body Satinee
• 1959 Aerosol CoolSpray Bath Powder, a spray on talc
• 1961 Creamy Milk Bath, rich grains of fragrance to smooth and soften the skin
• 1963 Scented Shampoo
• 1963 Cologne
• 1965 Hair Set
• 1965 Skin Perfume
• 1964 Spray Shower Oil
• 1964 Hand Cream
• 1965 Hair Spray
• 1965 Antiperspirant
• 1965 Crème Sachet
• 1966 Scented Candle
• 1966 Room Spray
• 1966 Lingerie Pellets
• 1966 Drawer Liner paper
• 1966 Chiffon de Parfum crème perfume
• 1967 Moisture bath
• 1968 After Bath Friction Lotion
• 1968 Parfum de Sachet, a liquid sachet to dab on
• 1970 Bath Crystals

Bottles:

Over the years, Estée Lauder's "Youth Dew" has been presented in various elegant and distinctive bottles, each reflecting the brand's commitment to luxury and sophistication. Among these, the bottles used for the Parfum are particularly cherished by collectors and enthusiasts, offering a glimpse into the artistry and craftsmanship that Estée Lauder imbued into its packaging.

One of the most iconic and beloved designs is the frosted glass snuff bottle, which features a matching frosted glass stopper shaped like an open quince flower. This design is not only visually stunning but also evokes a sense of timeless elegance and refinement. The frosted glass gives the bottle a soft, ethereal quality, allowing the rich amber hue of the "Youth Dew" Parfum to subtly shine through. The quince flower stopper adds a delicate, floral touch, perfectly complementing the fragrance's warm and spicy floral notes.

These bottles were crafted in France by the renowned glass manufacturer Pochet et du Courval, a detail that adds an additional layer of prestige and quality to the "Youth Dew" line. Pochet et du Courval has a long history of producing high-quality glassware for luxury brands, and their collaboration with Estée Lauder resulted in a bottle that is both beautiful and functional. Despite some common misconceptions, these bottles were not made by Lalique, another famous French glassmaker. The bottles are distinctly marked with "Bottle Made in France" and "HP," indicating their authentic origin and distinguishing them from imitations or other designs.

The frosted glass snuff bottle and quince flower stopper design have become synonymous with the "Youth Dew" Parfum, symbolizing the luxurious and enduring appeal of the fragrance. This particular presentation of "Youth Dew" not only highlights the perfume's rich heritage but also showcases the brand's dedication to creating products that are as beautiful on the outside as they are on the inside. The careful attention to detail in the bottle's design reflects Estée Lauder's philosophy of making every aspect of the fragrance experience special and memorable.

For many collectors, these bottles are not just vessels for the perfume but treasured pieces of art that capture the essence of a bygone era of elegance and glamour. They are a testament to the timeless allure of "Youth Dew," a fragrance that continues to captivate and enchant, much like the exquisite bottles in which it has been housed.

In 1985, Youth Dew reached a new level of prestige with its introduction as a Parfum, a status that added an extra layer of luxury to the beloved fragrance. Before this, Youth Dew had been available in various forms such as Bath Oil, Eau de Parfum, Cologne, Body Satinee, and Pure Fragrance Spray, each offering a different way to experience the scent. The arrival of the Parfum marked a significant enhancement, providing a more concentrated and sophisticated version of the fragrance.

The parfum bottles that emerged at this time are notable for their elegant design, characterized by a frosted glass finish that lends a soft, refined look. Each bottle is topped with a delicate quince flower stopper, a beautiful touch that reflects the floral essence of the fragrance. The stopper's design adds a hint of whimsy and sophistication, making each bottle not only a vessel for the parfum but also a piece of art.

The collection of bottles comes in several sizes, each with its own distinct charm:

• The 0.12 oz mini bottle, standing at just 2.25 inches tall, is the smallest of the collection. Its petite size makes it ideal for travel or as a collectible item.
• The 0.25 oz bottle, at 2.5 inches tall, offers a bit more of the fragrance while still retaining a compact, elegant form.
• The 0.5 oz bottle, standing at 3.5 inches tall, strikes a balance between size and convenience, perfect for regular use.
• The 1 oz bottle, nearly 4 inches tall, is the largest in the collection, providing a generous amount of the concentrated parfum for those who wish to indulge in its luxurious scent on a more frequent basis.

Each bottle’s design not only highlights the rich, concentrated nature of the parfum but also serves as a testament to the timeless elegance of Youth Dew.

Quince Flower Parfum Bottle:

The bottle described is a stunning example of elegance and craftsmanship, introduced in 1985 alongside Youth Dew's new Parfum status. This particular design is a frosted glass laydown bottle, intricately shaped like an open quince flower blossom. The frosted glass imparts a soft, ethereal quality, reminiscent of morning dew on delicate petals, while the form of the bottle beautifully captures the intricate details of the flower, adding a touch of natural grace to the fragrance experience.

Topping this exquisite bottle is a gilded metal cap, which exudes a sense of luxury and refinement. The cap is adorned with a light green tassel that enhances the bottle's opulent appearance while providing a gentle contrast to the frosted glass. This touch of color and texture adds an element of sophistication and a hint of whimsy, elevating the overall presentation of the Parfum.

The bottle holds 0.25 oz of Youth Dew Parfum, offering a compact yet refined amount of the fragrance. Accompanied by a light green silky pouch, the bottle is not only a vessel for the parfum but also a part of a complete luxury experience. The pouch, with its soft texture and coordinating color, complements the bottle and provides a protective and elegant storage option.

This design, introduced in 1985, marks a significant addition to the Youth Dew collection, reflecting a commitment to both aesthetic beauty and the sensory pleasure of experiencing a cherished fragrance in its most concentrated form.

French Glass Parfum Flacon:

The French Glass Parfum Flacon described is a distinctive and elegant example of limited edition packaging for Youth Dew perfume, introduced in 1969. This particular bottle is often mistakenly identified as an antique Victorian scent bottle, but it is, in fact, a modern collectible piece from the late 1960s, created as part of a special release to celebrate the fragrance’s enduring allure.

The bottle itself is crafted from fine French glass, showcasing a refined and sophisticated design. It holds 0.25 oz of Youth Dew Parfum, a size that highlights the exclusivity of this edition. The flacon is topped with a silvery screw cap of ornate filigree, providing a secure closure while maintaining the elegant aesthetic. This cap is often noted for its classy design, which aligns with the sophisticated nature of the bottle.

A rare and noteworthy detail is the presence of a tag on some of these bottles, though it is seldom seen. This tag further attests to the limited edition status of the Parfum Flacon, adding an extra layer of exclusivity to this already special piece.

Overall, this 1969 French Glass Parfum Flacon represents a unique blend of modern elegance and collectible value, distinguished by its exquisite silver filigree and meticulous craftsmanship.