tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14976597476316557792024-03-14T00:33:30.965-04:00Estee Lauder PerfumesFrom past to present. Info on fragrances, company history, bottles, new fragrance launches, etc.GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-42661765686431968812023-06-24T20:56:00.003-04:002023-10-21T21:38:57.386-04:00White Linen by Estee Lauder c1978<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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White Linen by Estee Lauder: launched in 1978. The fragrance was created by the perfumers at IFF.<br />
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<u><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">Fragrance Composition:</span></span></u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? White Linen is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It begins with a aldehydic, fresh flowery top, followed by a radiant floral heart, resting on a sensual, spicy, woody base. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Top notes sparkle with a fresh floral aldehyde composition recalling the crisp air of springs first scents - lavender, Bulgarian rose, Moroccan roses, jasmine, orange blossom, lily of the valley and violet blending with pimento berry, orris and the clean, sweet sharpness of orange. Background warms the vetiver, moss, incense and amber.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top notes: aldehydes, peach, citrus oils, flower calyx note, honeysuckle, orange</li>
<li>Middle notes: lavender, hyacinth, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, lilac, orchid, Grasse jasmine, Moroccan rose, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, iris, pimento berry, violet</li>
<li>Base notes: Haitian vetiver, musk, incense, oakmoss, cedar, amber, Ceylon sandalwood, civet, honey, Thailand benzoin, tonka bean</li>
</ul>
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<u>The New Romantics:</u></h3>
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In 1978, Estee Lauder introduced three new fragrances in a new line she dubbed The New Romantics Collection. The spirit of the times was layered fashions so she decided to make fragrances that would work the same way and could be worn two or three at a time to interact with each other. These new fragrances: White Linen, Celadon and Pavilion could be worn singly, but create a whole different fragrance aura when worn together. If you purchased all three, and layer them, you could create 27 different fragrances.<br />
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Estee stated that "Fragrance is an extension of the women who wears it, a reaching out to those around her. My new three fragrances are meant to be enjoyed with new freedom, I created them to work together through their floral notes...The ingredients are natural so that one complements the other. A woman will never mix them quite the same way. She will enjoy each one separately, but she will have almost endless possibilities to express her own creations, too."<br />
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White Linen was described as a "crisp spring-like fragrance." Celadon was described as a "light mixture of a flower garden" It combines jonquils and ylang ylang with other fruity and green notes. Pavilion was an exotic "sensuous sophisticated formulation." It features tuberose, narcissus and jasmine with patchouli and spices with mossy tones.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Estee went on to say that "Fragrance is not separate from living. Women have more varied lifestyles than ever before. They are more independent and more confident. They are showing more creativity. Now they can be as individual with fragrance as they are with their wardrobes."<br />
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Estee offered tips for wearing the new layered fragrances:<br />
<ul>
<li>Wear them side by side so that each fragrance can bloom by itself. The notes of each will come together as you more and your nose will perceive the combination just as your ears perceive quadraphonic sound.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Layer vertically - using White Linen on your neck and shoulders; Celadon on the arms and weightier Pavilion behind the knees. The deeper scents will rise to meet the lighter notes.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>-Apply different fragrances throughout the day as your mood and activities change. Wear an early morning airing of crisp White Linen; change to Celadon in the afternoon and Pavilion for evening.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Wear Celadon on one wrist, Pavilion on the other and White Linen on your neck and shoulders. The fragrances will drift across each other as your move your arms.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Experiment with quantities - one short spray of Celadon, two long sprays of Pavilion and three short sprays of White Linen. Or use one spray all over, and then touches of the other liquid fragrances at the pulse points.</li>
</ul>
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She advised that when you wear one fragrance for a long time, your senses become accustomed to it and you are no longer aware of the scent. If you wear two or three fragrances your nose will continue to be attuned to the scent because it is constantly perceiving new notes. She also stated that those nearest to you will stay pleasantly aware too.<br />
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Estee saw the entire concept as a fragrance adventure, however, White Linen quickly took off by itself as the star of the line, and the company decided to go with the winner and eventually dropped the other two fragrances. In a 1985 article the two siblings were noted as "moribund" compared to White Linen, so by that time, they were seen as struggling. <br />
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Though in 1986, according to Bob Barnes, then the president of Estee Lauder USA, the company was worried because the public saw the White Linen name as meaning that it was strictly a summer fragrance, but the company tried to quickly dispel that notion but adding the tag line "White Linen a crisp, refreshing fragrance from Estee Lauder to live in all summer long, all year long."<br />
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Today, only one fragrance from the New Romantics collection has survived, White Linen remains victorious while Celadon and Pavilion were discontinued around 1994. Perhaps women did not like the idea of layering several perfumes and thought that one spray was good enough.<br />
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1980 retail prices for the New Romantics collection (notice the different prices for each perfume):<br />
<ul>
<li>0.5 oz White Linen Parfum Spray $8.50</li>
<li>0.5 oz Pavilion Parfum Spray $8.00</li>
<li>0.5 oz Celadon Parfum Spray $7.50</li>
<li>1.75 oz White Linen Parfum Spray $20.00</li>
<li>1.75 oz Pavilion Parfum Spray $17.50</li>
<li>1.75 oz Celadon Parfum Spray $15.00</li>
</ul>
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By 1994 the prices had dropped slightly:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>0.5 oz White Linen Parfum Spray $8.50</li>
<li>0.5 oz Pavilion Parfum Spray $7.50</li>
<li>0.5 oz Celadon Parfum Spray $6.50</li>
</ul>
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<u>Bottles:</u></h3><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div>
White Linen was presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand and this same style bottle was used over the years with very little modification. Occasionally, limited edition bottles were produced usually for the holiday seasons.<br />
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The standard White Linen flacons:<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">0.25 oz Perfume</span></span></li>
<li><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">0.50 oz Perfume</span></span></li>
<li><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">1 oz Perfume</span></span></li>
<li>0.25 oz Signature Parfum Spray</li>
</ul>
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In 1983 a limited edition called the Frosted Shell was introduced for the Christmas season. It was a frosted glass shell shaped perfume bottle with a goldtone cap ending in a silken tassel. The bottle holds 0.25 oz of pure parfum and had originally retailed for $40 at the time.<br />
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-44210821967203855722022-01-04T05:56:00.002-05:002023-10-20T20:58:49.576-04:00Estee Super c1968<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Estee Super by Estee Lauder: launched in 1968. <br />
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<a name='more'></a>Estee was the first fragrance the queen of the cosmetics world brought out since Youth Dew, then seventeen years old. As for the name, the beauty tycoon said, "You don't think I'd put my name on something that doesn't smell good?"</div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">Estee called the perfume a "super fragrance" - the full names on the bottles are Estee's Super Perfume and Estee's Super Cologne. The formula was marketed to last at least 24 hours on any woman, three times longer than any other fragrance, because it has three times more essential oils than other perfumes. The fragrance reportedly took seven years to be developed.</div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><div><u><br /></u></div>The fragrance was officially launched at Saks Fifth Avenue ten days before being put on the shelves of other stores such as John Wanamaker in Philadelphia. <h3 style="text-align: left;"><u><br /></u></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fragrance Composition</u>:</h3>
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<br />
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet floral fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery woody base. Classic, spicy, green floral with warm, woody notes.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: aldehydes, raspberry, peach, citrus oils, coriander, bergamot</li>
<li>Middle notes: tuberose, lily of the valley, rose absolute, Grasse jasmine, carnation, Nossi-be ylang ylang, honey, orris</li>
<li>Base notes: incense, cedar, musk, Ceylon sandalwood, styrax, oakmoss</li>
</ul>
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<u>Bottles:</u></h3>
Estee's bottle, smoothly ovaled and capped with a tall silvery stainless steel column, is packaged in a celestial blue box, patterned with a deeper blue, the geometric design echoing the multifaceted nature of the fragrance itself. The parfum bottle is an upright rectangular bottle in clear and frosted glass with a rectangular frosted glass stopper with an openwork center.</div>
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A special flacon was created for the parfum, it was a clear glass small purse bottle covered with silver lattice and topped by a silver filigree cap. This little bottle was small enough to fit inside the purse and was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. The bottle was also used by other perfumers, mainly La Castillerie in France since the 1940s.</div>
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Estee Super was available in the following:<br /><ul><li>Perfume in silver filigree mini bottle</li>
<li>1/4 oz Perfume Splash</li>
<li>1/2 oz Perfume Splash</li>
<li>1 oz Perfume Splash</li>
<li>3/10 oz Refillable Perfume Purse Spray</li>
<li>2 oz Perfume Spray</li>
<li>1.85 oz Pure Fragrance Spray</li>
<li>2 oz Daytime Fragrance Splash</li>
<li>4 oz Daytime Fragrance Splash</li>
<li>1 3/4 oz Daytime Fragrance Spray</li>
<li>Solid Perfume</li>
<li>1/2 oz Cologne Purse Spray</li>
<li>2 oz Cologne Spray</li>
<li>2 oz Cologne Splash</li>
<li>4 oz Cologne Splash</li>
<li>1/2 oz Perfumed Bath Oil</li>
<li>1 oz Perfumed Bath Oil</li>
<li>8 oz Perfumed Body Cream</li>
<li>3 1/2 oz Perfumed Pouf Powder</li>
<li>9 oz Perfumed Body Powder</li>
<li>7 oz Perfumed Milk Bath</li>
<li>7 oz Perfumed Bath Crystals</li>
<li>6 oz Perfumed Spray Powder</li>
<li>Perfumed Bath Soap</li>
<li>Perfumed Guest Soap</li>
</ul>
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In 1970, the Estee line was expanded to include ancillary items. The Estee Body Cream was housed in a pretty marine blue glass globe with a silver top is for use after the bath for allover skin softness and moisture. The after bath powder was packaged in a lovely blue box, complete with its own puff mitt with which to rub the powder into the skin. The fragrant blue bath soap was molded into a stylized cube, made easy to hold on to.</div>
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In 1976, the Estee Pure Fragrance Spray was introduced and replaced the Super Perfume Spray. By 1976, the Pure Fragrance Spray was also available in other Estee Lauder scents: Youth Dew, Aliage, and Private Collection. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Also in 1976 was the first appearance of the Estee Daytime Fragrance in Splash and Spray, a lighter, brighter version of the classic Estee fragrance.</div>
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-40231032383690492952021-01-15T11:30:00.008-05:002023-10-21T02:24:35.587-04:00Private Collection by Estee Lauder c1973<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Private Collection by Estee Lauder: launched in 1978. Created by Vincent Marcello.</div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><i><blockquote>"All you need is one beautiful drop to know why Estee Lauder was keeping Private Collection fragrance for herself."</blockquote></i><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgWvh-4whv3Vp-QobzL_MNo6ZVChMPgqxa-FYDbE19Zj2duDCxoii3g-3LbWab18sy2DIST_hrzOQFTebTr_jlWmODleIGBKBu1UzpmGJWKfST20RdsqSAcuaJC7Zn8eIPqBCKQPphIXHmIu9Lp1PWxQ0AAeKayXlEoMs1ycWwC-5xUEtrfNJx3jfChg/s2863/cx.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2863" data-original-width="2259" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgWvh-4whv3Vp-QobzL_MNo6ZVChMPgqxa-FYDbE19Zj2duDCxoii3g-3LbWab18sy2DIST_hrzOQFTebTr_jlWmODleIGBKBu1UzpmGJWKfST20RdsqSAcuaJC7Zn8eIPqBCKQPphIXHmIu9Lp1PWxQ0AAeKayXlEoMs1ycWwC-5xUEtrfNJx3jfChg/w504-h640/cx.jpg" width="504" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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<a name='more'></a>Originally, Private Collection, was a custom made perfume reserved for Estée Lauder for her own exclusive use. When she was asked what scent she was wearing, she would reply with "this is from my private collection."<br />
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Private Collection fragrance was available in the following:<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Parfum</li>
<li>Perfume Spray</li>
<li>Parfum Cologne</li>
<li>Dusting Powder</li>
<li>Silken Body Lotion</li>
<li>Perfumed Body Cream</li>
<li>Pure Fragrance Spray</li>
<li>Perfumed Soap</li>
</ul>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Fragrance Composition:</u></h3>
<br />So what does it smell like? The original formula is classified as green floral chypre fragrance for women. </div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">It starts with a brilliant green top highlighted with dewy Luxonne odorata violets, fresh bergamot and honeyed cassie from Lebanon. This is followed by a dramatic green floral heart marrying the essences of jasmine grandiflorum and rose de mai from Grasse, damask roses from the Valley of Roses in Bulgaria, orange blossom and the sweetness from honeysuckle and tropical ylang ylang from Nossi-Be. These opulent floral notes are resting on a green, mossy base blended with balsamic benzoin from Thailand, crisp vetiver from Haiti, coriander, warm labdanum from Cyprus, earthy patchouli and precious sandalwood from Ceylon.</div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">. Made up of over 200 ingredients including some of the rarest and most expensive absolutes, reportedly not one of them was synthetic. Opulent, dramatic, floral with brilliant green topnote.<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: Luxonne violet, green accord, bergamot, hyacinth, lime, neroli, mimosa, Lebanon cassie</li>
<li>Middle notes: Bulgarian damask rose, Grasse rose de mai, Grasse jasmine, narcissus, pine needle, reseda, orange blossom, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, honeysuckle</li>
<li>Base notes: Thailand benzoin, oakmoss, Haiti vetiver, cedar, musk, amber, Ceylon sandalwood, heliotrope, Cyprus labdanum, patchouli, coriander</li>
</ul>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Bottle:</u></h3><div><br /></div><div>The Parfum was wrapped in Estee Lauder's own parchment writing paper, tied with a ribbon in her favorite shade of blue and tucked in a drawstring leather bag, its frosted crystal decanter is said to be a copy of her own antique flask. Contrary to what I have seen people list in the descriptions in their online shops, the bottle was made in France, but it was not made by Lalique. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YM_akle9Kn9AMtc5bw1bPiuBfuo2Z4XTTFgCzUWokEO-7j9ng8sVhex-7KVVLQGexbPuSQwjlBgREXL2Mo-wdYtVzG2lf3REX6IVCQvjZoPfyTy7eP22MgO-Dd0kD-HgB91J4tAjq3rF/s391/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+104520+AM.bmp.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YM_akle9Kn9AMtc5bw1bPiuBfuo2Z4XTTFgCzUWokEO-7j9ng8sVhex-7KVVLQGexbPuSQwjlBgREXL2Mo-wdYtVzG2lf3REX6IVCQvjZoPfyTy7eP22MgO-Dd0kD-HgB91J4tAjq3rF/s16000/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+104520+AM.bmp.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioowQsJ1xN5j2KLYM7Tpcw0IPR3Kg51dQ__5CZAuk0FfONpd8AsaqdKWlbhJk62uAOEb2sBA0ZXAaJRSJRgeORJrkYCo5p63iT-nIilrkrwPtwUmCE7dPh4JzsQi1vozPr0qsOhsDDD2NO/s429/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+103459+AM.bmp.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="365" data-original-width="429" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioowQsJ1xN5j2KLYM7Tpcw0IPR3Kg51dQ__5CZAuk0FfONpd8AsaqdKWlbhJk62uAOEb2sBA0ZXAaJRSJRgeORJrkYCo5p63iT-nIilrkrwPtwUmCE7dPh4JzsQi1vozPr0qsOhsDDD2NO/s16000/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+103459+AM.bmp.jpg" /></a></div><br />Parfum was available in the following sizes in the frosted bottle:<div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1 oz. (30 ml) with glass stopper</li><li>0.5 oz (15 ml) with glass stopper</li><li>0.25 oz. (7.5 ml) with glass stopper</li><li>0.09 oz (3ml miniature) with plastic stopper</li></ul></div>
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An 11" tall frosted glass factice bottle can also be found. This was filled with colored water, not perfume.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>A limited edition Collector's Bottle was released, it is made of clear and frosted glass with a frosted glass stopper in the shape of flames. Again, this is a French made bottle, but not by Lalique.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjddwyEGGvIohINaMjSvdtGaVeCAynnfYopY7BDIhynZxNOYNr-VjG79A2EjxSYCq-6hZ5KAdb-uj1mweR9T5Zt9t7B-e_-jdH5zjHAdUIz5aD908vpy9CV80iPet4QO3KtxQeJj8VVqlEM/s2048/wr3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1821" data-original-width="2048" height="570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjddwyEGGvIohINaMjSvdtGaVeCAynnfYopY7BDIhynZxNOYNr-VjG79A2EjxSYCq-6hZ5KAdb-uj1mweR9T5Zt9t7B-e_-jdH5zjHAdUIz5aD908vpy9CV80iPet4QO3KtxQeJj8VVqlEM/w640-h570/wr3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div>The flame stopper inspired another Limited Edition, this time a precious purse bottle was released. It is frosted glass and a recalls the flame shape with a gold tone screw cap ending in a silky tassel. This bottle measures approximately 3" long x 1.25" wide. It holds 7ml of parfum. The bottle was housed in a beige leather pouch.</div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMzz3J3j1gi3JHR_RwyQAOHHVXJZDdGKySr6G79_jIOz222W6DSX6cyMdHX9nlDYGimShKAkMSyh0xOE6Xzx2Il4834kj3PunlhDQYhf5yWn05gxlYq4VUcU0wKGxa9qN0gk8zICBbYYN/s446/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+104933+AM.bmp.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="396" data-original-width="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMzz3J3j1gi3JHR_RwyQAOHHVXJZDdGKySr6G79_jIOz222W6DSX6cyMdHX9nlDYGimShKAkMSyh0xOE6Xzx2Il4834kj3PunlhDQYhf5yWn05gxlYq4VUcU0wKGxa9qN0gk8zICBbYYN/s16000/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+104933+AM.bmp.jpg" /></a></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Spray bottles were also produced such as the frosted bottles below holding 3/8 oz of Parfum.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHxv8vcy9xE2hKimO-QT4FQtvcwPrgMo_bAGtJ5VYkCTQy3DD9KBXa6ETEmb8ItRyTs9XQnr2xo2GOM_rAdcniK8kiRy3q735_UMnMzhjXLHRQvNbGfaNo48mqZXt0DwZegWmK6ep5_bb/s568/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+111710+AM.bmp_burned.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHxv8vcy9xE2hKimO-QT4FQtvcwPrgMo_bAGtJ5VYkCTQy3DD9KBXa6ETEmb8ItRyTs9XQnr2xo2GOM_rAdcniK8kiRy3q735_UMnMzhjXLHRQvNbGfaNo48mqZXt0DwZegWmK6ep5_bb/s16000/Fullscreen+capture+1152021+111710+AM.bmp_burned.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="text-align: center;"> </span></div><br /><br />In the 1980s, Estee Lauder released lovely Holiday gift sets with glass or ceramic boxes accompanied by a bottle of Parfum. These were dubbed "Keepsake Boxes".<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiph7opvicte41qi6MjuFR9FfpW_Nk8xhp2jwjYis4d1IX0OtheiyR2E34da8OrfEPBxImrIt7-zA65iochsxOI1lpXcj-sUG13oJVjdm3qGOZ6uxuC4kJcZcCCUZnxotC6H2NKL-S0BZsX/s2048/wr.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2037" data-original-width="2048" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiph7opvicte41qi6MjuFR9FfpW_Nk8xhp2jwjYis4d1IX0OtheiyR2E34da8OrfEPBxImrIt7-zA65iochsxOI1lpXcj-sUG13oJVjdm3qGOZ6uxuC4kJcZcCCUZnxotC6H2NKL-S0BZsX/w640-h636/wr.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaD5QkIQi0KswxEMR1EpXcZ-vBz9NDJweNjIBv4upasHA7GITgYlan11rtuvPhDd5NZnfb9JHaEjDHV1xCeE_yMtyIgJDKpdoRbg1ARm4ylZ4_hAV17ETWxdj5GEa4P5KHOCRf5sdS1PIg/s2048/wr2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1438" data-original-width="2048" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaD5QkIQi0KswxEMR1EpXcZ-vBz9NDJweNjIBv4upasHA7GITgYlan11rtuvPhDd5NZnfb9JHaEjDHV1xCeE_yMtyIgJDKpdoRbg1ARm4ylZ4_hAV17ETWxdj5GEa4P5KHOCRf5sdS1PIg/w640-h450/wr2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Estee Lauder Private Collection Keepsake Box and original .25 oz Parfum. The 'Keepsake Box' measures 4" high, 2.75" wide and 2" thick. The frosted glass is decorated with intricate and delicate gold stenciled designs. The top opens on a back hinge and is secured by a floral clasp on the front. The top and bottom of the box (jar) are trimmed with beaded gold-tone oval frames. The bottom is marked: "Created in Japan especially for Estee Lauder Private Collection Keepsake Boxes". The original bottle of Private Collection Perfume is in a tan leather pouch with a grosgrain ribbon tie .The bottom of the bottle is marked: "Private Collection Estee Lauder Dist New York, New York 1002.25 FL OZ Bottle Made in France"<br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3><div><br /></div><div>Private Collection has suffered from various reformulations over the years and its current formula, unfortunately does not smell as good as it originally did when it was able to be produced using many of the ingredients that are restricted today such as oakmoss.</div>
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script></div>GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-12096169914560536042019-12-30T09:46:00.007-05:002021-10-14T20:46:40.967-04:00Azuree by Estee Lauder c1969<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Azuree by Estee Lauder: launched in 1969. Created by Bernard Chant.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOLh0OOz0Hrue7z-IdXBWelK8mgYxumejQ4ySBYumSldI7_-lnq86nvH4G1AzHicdv-CkD7qNKzanbIgnBb-N1pyOpBqRE7XCFK4DmY6uOiBKMaXbJ-yXuZQxBVRqdqrO87yc_fP3fRE8v/s1600/es.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOLh0OOz0Hrue7z-IdXBWelK8mgYxumejQ4ySBYumSldI7_-lnq86nvH4G1AzHicdv-CkD7qNKzanbIgnBb-N1pyOpBqRE7XCFK4DmY6uOiBKMaXbJ-yXuZQxBVRqdqrO87yc_fP3fRE8v/s1600/es.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fragrance Composition</u>:</h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. A sparkling top note of florals, fresh citrus and crisp herbaceous notes of basil, sage and spearmint combine with a rich, woody background of oakmoss and patchouli. It was described as "a fresh scent rich with Mediterranean warmth and tang." </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: aldehydes, armoise, artemisia, gardenia, basil, sage, bergamot</li>
<li>Middle notes: cyclamen, orris, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, geranium, Haiti vetiver, rose</li>
<li>Base notes: leather, amber, patchouli, musk, oakmoss</li>
</ul>
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In 1973, Estee Lauder introduced the Azuree Sunshine Cologne Splash, a light and breezy version of Azuree, it was meant to be generously splashed over the whole body.<br />
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<u>Bath & Body Products:</u></h3>
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Azuree was a full line of bath and body products meant to relax, refresh and invigorate you.<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Mint Pick Up Bath, a tangy mint spiked refreshing bubble bath</li>
<li>Perfumed Bath Oil, a highly fragrant bath oil</li>
<li>Fresh Milk Bath, a silkening luxury foaming bubble bath with the legendary benefits of a milk bath</li>
<li>Fresh Water Bath Oil Soap, an effective cleanser with a high concentration of emollients</li>
<li>Tender Creme Bath, a relaxing birch scented, smoothing bath oil</li>
<li>European Mineral Bath Salts, an instant soaking spa bath</li>
<li>Cool Spray Powder, a fine fragrant talc in an icy aerosol spray</li>
<li>Pressed Dusting Powder, a smoothing non spill powder tablet</li>
<li>Cologne Spray Concentrate, the warm and tangy long lasting essence</li>
<li>Perfumed Cologne, longer lasting essences in a refreshing splash</li>
<li>Body Satin Rub, an after bath moisturizing massage lotion to supple skin, relax muscles</li>
<li>Silken Dusting Powder, for luxurious silky soft skin</li>
<li>Sparkling Friction Lotion, a clear, tangy, refreshing, cooling, fragrance splash</li>
<li>Invigorating Bath Gel, a stimulating foaming body shampoo</li>
<li>Sponge Bath Freshener, a portable towel in a packet saturated with cooling lotion</li>
<li>Parfum Boutique Spray</li>
<li>Parfum Purse Spray</li>
</ul>
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Hair Care Products in the Azuree line were added in 1971:<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Natural Shampoo</li>
<li>A rinse for oily hair contained cucumber.</li>
<li>A rinse for fine to medium hair contained rosewood and sandalwood.</li>
<li>Herbal Pack Conditioner & Nourisher to revitalize hair every few weeks</li>
<li>Hair Spray</li>
</ul>
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<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Azuree has been available over the years but suffered from reformulations since around 2010.<br />
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-60737556723563363082019-09-13T06:00:00.002-04:002022-05-06T14:39:34.792-04:00Origins <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Origins is a cosmetics brand from the US, founded in 1990 by Leonard Lauder, son of Estee Lauder.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYk0WvtvN0WmH7uXG9C-NaGvNzN42LdXjf5tAvV_5QUX5529QpTaZFKAOyH1TS6Us84vq8Q788dF0osbOuHu3pL5etOqUfKJBZs-nu5iz6Tr-64ytxqRCTqod0G6KBn_osbUWn2ZjDDDRnXGZ2KkauOsTpBmm7kH_qvIJGhzzA-giXRMsINh2_uPnIrQ/s690/o.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="552" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYk0WvtvN0WmH7uXG9C-NaGvNzN42LdXjf5tAvV_5QUX5529QpTaZFKAOyH1TS6Us84vq8Q788dF0osbOuHu3pL5etOqUfKJBZs-nu5iz6Tr-64ytxqRCTqod0G6KBn_osbUWn2ZjDDDRnXGZ2KkauOsTpBmm7kH_qvIJGhzzA-giXRMsINh2_uPnIrQ/w512-h640/o.webp" width="512" /></a></div><br /><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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Origins Natural Resources was conceived as a line of environmentally friendly botanical-based skin care, minimalist makeup, and sensory therapy products. Origins does not test its products on animals or use animal-derived ingredients, not even in brushes.<br />
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Plant Spirits Splashing Waters was a line of "fragrant, mood altering" body splashes brought out in 1992. Made up of light, natural essences that promised not to overwhelm, "only you are aware that you are wearing them". In addition, the press piece stated that the spirits "sneak into your subconscious to lift your outlook, quietly alter your vision of yourself and the world around you."<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Spirits of the Night had spicy notes of cinnamon and cloves layered over earthy patchouli.</li>
<li>Spirits of the Forest was made up of woody oils. </li>
<li>Spirits of the Gardens, a floral bouquet of freshly cut jasmine, violet, wrapped up in geranium leaves.</li>
<li>Spirits of the Sun, is a warm, herbal scent.</li>
</ul>
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-23854683403772685342019-03-18T22:04:00.006-04:002021-10-14T20:46:21.388-04:00Knowing by Estee Lauder c1988<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Knowing by Estee Lauder: launched in 1988. Created by Jean Kerléo in collaboration with Elie Roger (Firmenich).<br />
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The name of the fragrance is meant to suggest the attitude of a sophisticated woman who has developed into a self-assured, confident, uncompromising individual. “When a woman wears it, she feels like she knows it all,” said Estee Lauder who described Knowing as “a fragrance for the 21st century.”<br />
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The marketing campaign used for the fragrance was meant to change the entire Lauder image. The ads pictured gorgeous model Paulina Porizkova, who left Revlon in order to become the spokesperson for Estee Lauder. The ad below illustrates the exact image of a sexy, confident woman that Lauder wished to portray.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAM5uNcmbxytlinS_fF0nGCvKK-9ZfrDz9egYSMneReAqQc4iP41uBR1pbAANJSjxkk1swksJBtW0CFxd2pOkcDW9pHxXXQHCJJWCQ8ZcF5NKDtcix-yoI2NdDQpxTaXh_9Wjg-8hcvBsU/s1600/ko.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1181" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAM5uNcmbxytlinS_fF0nGCvKK-9ZfrDz9egYSMneReAqQc4iP41uBR1pbAANJSjxkk1swksJBtW0CFxd2pOkcDW9pHxXXQHCJJWCQ8ZcF5NKDtcix-yoI2NdDQpxTaXh_9Wjg-8hcvBsU/s640/ko.jpg" width="472" /></a></div>
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Knowing represented Lauder’s first chypre (non-alcoholic) fragrance and was developed, with Estee Lauder, by Firmenich. It is also one of the rare occasions that Lauder has used an essential oil house other than International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc, which has been a Lauder favorite since IFF supplied Youth Dew.<br />
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Knowing was launched late April 1988 at 168 doors in 15 cities and was available nationally and internationally in the fall.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fragrance Composition</u>:</h3>
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<br />
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a modern floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a sparkling aldehydic top with the warm, sweet note of pittosporum and fruity notes of ripe plum. Followed by an opulent floral heart comprised of four different varieties of jasmine including Grasse jasmine grandiflorum mingling with lily and heady tuberose. These notes are followed by a smattering of rich spices and aromatic richness, resting on a warm, luxurious woodsy base of sandalwood from Ceylon and grassy vetiver from Haiti.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: aldehydes, pittosporum, davana, plum and melon </li>
<li>Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, pittosporum, tuberose, mimosa, orris, patchouli and bay </li>
<li>Base notes: oakmoss, amber, sandalwood, vetiver and musk</li>
</ul>
<br />
Leonard Lauder explained, "I've met people who say 'I don't like your fragrances. They're all too strong.' So we came up with Knowing, which is a far more subtle fragrance, and got new customers. It's the first fragrance we've launched that has not cannibalized our other business."<br />
<br />
“I think our fragrances are very familial as a rule,” said Jean Leaman, senior vice president for creative marketing. Although each top note is different, “there is something about them that identifies them as a Lauder fragrance,” she added. “This one is not. This one is different.”<br />
<br />
The inspiration according to Estee Lauder:<br />
<br />
"When on a holiday trip in the south of France, Evelyn Lauder, was intrigued with a floral scent that wafted through the garden below her balcony. She searched for the source and found that it was the pittosporum flower, which she immediately knew could be the floral center of a wonderful fragrance. So beautifully orchestrated is the deep, warm scent of Knowing that it can almost be touched and felt."<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Bottle:</u></h3>
<br />
Presented in a chunky lead crystal flacon designed by Ira Levy, decorated with a gold cord wrapped around the neck.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
When it was first launched, one ounce of the parfum retailed for $300, the most expensive Lauder fragrance at the time, with Private Collection selling for $150 an ounce, it's second expensive. The quarter ounce parfum spray sold for $60, and came in a gold metal canister. The eau de parfum came in clear, rippled glass bottles with black matte caps. The 2.5 oz spray retailed for $50, the 1.7 oz splash bottle sold for $40, while the 1 ounce spray sold for $35. There was also a $50 set that included the 2.5 oz eau de parfum spray and a wide, clear plastic bracelet (designed after the Knowing bottle) that the beauty advisers wore.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmgLsQ5L5soKVEkvpzp_LlD5C32bQgfol8S4q-_0ySunFBRBuG-dmX-30Xhyphenhyphen-2wCZsHtaF6hLSkilzqbQ6EXoYCWkdueVr1iFdVp1DDjaXQUUyB6080eH1tmw-kJpHZ_u-l2AW5pzqOZWf/s1600/kl.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="558" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmgLsQ5L5soKVEkvpzp_LlD5C32bQgfol8S4q-_0ySunFBRBuG-dmX-30Xhyphenhyphen-2wCZsHtaF6hLSkilzqbQ6EXoYCWkdueVr1iFdVp1DDjaXQUUyB6080eH1tmw-kJpHZ_u-l2AW5pzqOZWf/s400/kl.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
<br />
As of 2021, Knowing is still being produced and is available on the Estee Lauder website. Please note that the fragrance has been reformulated at least once since around 2010 to comply with IFRA regulations. You can see several of the original ingredients are no longer listed (aldehydes, davana, melon, lily of the valley, orris, bay, musk) in the reformulations note profile below.<br />
<br />
Notes listed on the Lauder website (2021):<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: rose, tuberose, mimosa, plum, pittosporum</li>
<li>Middle notes: jasmine, patchouli, orange flower</li>
<li>Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, amber</li>
</ul>
<br />
<div>
All rich woods and luxurious florals with luscious fruity accents. Worldly and warm. Intensely feminine.</div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-90000592953936175262014-09-18T19:46:00.003-04:002022-01-04T05:55:05.598-05:00Youth Dew by Estee Lauder c1953<div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Youth Dew by Estee Lauder: Launched in 1953. Created by IFF perfumers Josephine Catapano and Ernest Shiftan, who was called "Mr. Nose, USA".<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<a name='more'></a></h3>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Fragrance Composition: </u></h2>
<br />
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a fruity, spicy top, followed by an exotic, spicy floral heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base. Basically it is an exotic, warm, balsamic, oriental with rich floral notes.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: spice oils, bergamot, peach, aldehydes, orange</li>
<li>Middle notes: wallflower, spicy carnation, cloves, cassie, ylang ylang, cinnamon, rose, orchid, jasmine</li>
<li>Base notes: amber, Peru balsam, tolu balsam, benzoin, vanilla, olibanum, patchouli, oakmoss, frankincense, musk, vetiver, civet</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In a 1961 newspaper article it was said that one ounce of Youth Dew, "a currently favorite perfume, contains the essence of 9,600 jasmine flowers from France (at $700 a pound for jasmine absolute); 480 roses from Francel 80 roses of a different variety from Morocco; 1,750 orange blossoms; 60 tuberoses; the amount of orris absolute grown on 15 square feet of iris plantation near Florence; the peel of half a bergamot from Calabria; the handscraped peel of 15 oranges, sandalwood and cardamom oils from India, estragon oil from Spanish tarragon leaves; three animal fixatives and 35 laboratory-made aromatic chemicals."</div>
<br />
<br />
Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"Clove was also present in the "Mellis accord", which was a widely used base in spicy oriental fragrances including Youth Dew, Opium and Coco. The mellis accord, which makes up an important part of the fragrance here incorporates amyl salicylate in addition to benzyl salicylate, with the patchouli and hydroxycitronellal (which has a linden blossom-like, sweet, green, radiant odor), spices, woods and coumarin. Since then restrictions have been placed on some of these, so it will have been modified."</i></blockquote>
<br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><u>Bottles:</u></h3><br />By the 1960s, Youth Dew was available in the following:<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Eau de Parfum Spray</li><li>1 oz Bath Oil</li><li>Perfumed Lingerie Discs</li><li>Creamy Milk Bath</li><li>Coolspray Talc</li><li>Box of Three Soaps</li><li>Dusting Powder</li><li>1/2 oz Parfum</li><li>Creme Sachet Perfume</li><li>Body Satinee</li></ul></div><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /><br /><div dir="ltr" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The Youth Dew Bath Oil came in three sizes: 1/2 oz, 1 oz and 2 oz.<br />
<br />
<br />
The eau de parfum bottle with the blue bow wrapped around the center was first introduced in 1968. It was called the boutique spray.<br />
<br />
<br />
When you think of Youth Dew, you probably think of the Bath Oil that has been popular since the 1950s. But there were a whole range of ancillary products that followed.<br />
<br />
A 1953 article talks about Estee Lauder’s new Youth Dew products:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>“The head of a cosmetic house has created a line of bath products for head to foot beauty. More than a fragrance accessory, the emollient Youth Dew bath oil is intended by the manufacturer to keep the body supple and smooth. A bath lotion de sachet infused with the same clinging fragrance is meant for shower addicts or as an after bath skin toner. Others in the bath product quartet are a soap in a pale Fragonard blue, and the velvety finish of bath powder."</i></blockquote>
<br />
The skin perfume was more highly concentrated than the bath oil, it was the purest concentration of essences and was meant to last longer than normal perfumes.<br />
<br />
<br />
I have scoured vintage newspaper and magazine articles to create a complete list of the Youth Dew products and the years they have been introduced. Please understand that some products may have came out years earlier than the dates given. You can use this guide to help you date any Youth Dew product you have.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>The Youth Dew eau de parfum, bath oil and other bath products are still available, but most of the items below are discontinued.</b><br />
<br />
<br />
The Youth Dew Products:<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<ul>
<li>1951 Youth Dew Estoderm Cream</li>
<li>1953 Youth Dew Facial Cleanser</li>
<li>1953 Youth Dew Facial Mask</li>
<li>1953 Bath Oil</li>
<li>1953 Soap</li>
<li>1953 Estoderm Concentrate</li>
<li>1953 Talcum powder</li>
<li>1953 Lotion de Sachet</li>
<li>1953 Youth Dew Foundation</li>
<li>1953 Dusting Powder</li>
<li>1953 Bath Powder</li>
<li>1954 Youth Dew Emulsion</li>
<li>1954 Skin Lotion</li>
<li>1955 Lotion de Heat</li>
<li>1956 Youth Dew Face Powder</li>
<li>1958 Eau de Parfum</li>
<li>1958 Youth Dew Dewy Freshener</li>
<li>1958 Flowing Emulsion</li>
<li>1959 Body Satinee</li>
<li>1959 Aerosol CoolSpray Bath Powder, a spray on talc</li>
<li>1961 Creamy Milk Bath, rich grains of fragrance to smooth and soften the skin</li>
<li>1963 Scented Shampoo</li>
<li>1963 Cologne</li>
<li>1965 Hair Set</li>
<li>1965 Skin Perfume</li>
<li>1964 Spray Shower Oil</li>
<li>1964 Hand Cream</li>
<li>1965 Hair Spray</li>
<li>1965 Antiperspirant</li>
<li>1965 Crème Sachet</li>
<li>1966 Scented Candle</li>
<li>1966 Room Spray</li>
<li>1966 Lingerie Pellets</li>
<li>1966 Drawer Liner paper</li>
<li>1966 Chiffon de Parfum crème perfume</li>
<li>1967 Moisture bath</li>
<li>1968 After Bath Friction Lotion</li>
<li>1968 Parfum de Sachet, a liquid sachet to dab on</li>
<li>1970 Bath Crystals</li>
</ul>
</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Bottles:</u></h2>
<br />
Youth Dew was presented in various bottles over the years. My personal favorites are those used for the Parfum. The most common of these was a frosted glass snuff bottle with a matching frosted glass stopper in the shape of an open quince flower. This bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval and not Lalique as many people claim. The bottles are marked "Bottle Made in France and HP".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9NppuxnNxtbhs8dv5tYjeYHSvDrypu4f1Z25rQZ9gD6rnctoXPlx-K8pL9LHty4ymhyb9VQBWWDW7ouz7cPUjrZk2uKjFNm1_HH4SSsOcgymZtJFSBEQqFeABAk3ZC8isqoobqOpc9WO/s1600/qu.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1076" data-original-width="546" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9NppuxnNxtbhs8dv5tYjeYHSvDrypu4f1Z25rQZ9gD6rnctoXPlx-K8pL9LHty4ymhyb9VQBWWDW7ouz7cPUjrZk2uKjFNm1_HH4SSsOcgymZtJFSBEQqFeABAk3ZC8isqoobqOpc9WO/s320/qu.jpg" width="162" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
This bottle did not make its first appearance until 1985, when Youth Dew was finally given "Parfum" status, prior to this it was only available in Bath Oil, Eau de Parfum, Cologne, Body Satinee and Pure Fragrance Spray.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><i>Frosted bottle with quince flower stopper:</i></b><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>0.12 oz mini bottle stands 2.25" tall </li>
<li>0.25 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall</li>
<li>0.5 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall.</li>
<li>1 oz bottle stands almost 4" tall.</li>
</ul>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><i>Quince Flower Parfum Bottle:</i></b><br />
<br />
This is a beautiful frosted glass laydown bottle in the shape of an open quince flower blossom. The bottle has a gilded metal cap fitted with a light green tassel. This bottle holds 0.25 oz of parfum and came with a light green silky pouch. This bottle was also introduced in 1985.<br />
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<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b><i>French Glass Parfum Flacon:</i></b><br />
<br />
This is not an antique Victorian scent bottle as I often see it described, it is actually a limited edition from 1969, a 0.25 oz French glass bottle of Youth Dew perfume, seldom seen with the tag on it.<br />
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</div></div>GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-48675687007471100692014-09-18T17:31:00.004-04:002021-10-14T20:45:40.449-04:00Cinnabar by Estee Lauder c1978<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Cinnabar by Estee Lauder was launched in 1978.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>The beginning:</u></h3>
<br />
Yves Saint Laurent's Opium was launched in 1977 and it was a gorgeous Oriental perfume livened up with some very sparkling spice notes, but it wasn’t quite as sweet and heavy as Youth Dew. It opened in Paris and it was a sensation - <u>everybody</u> was talking about it…About the same time, Estee Lauder was planning to introduce a version of Youth Dew in 1977, which was going to be a lighter, she called it Soft Youth Dew.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"Everything that made Estée Lauder's original fragrance so unforgettable is still here. It is all just a little softer. Now Estée Lauder brings you her new Soft YOUTH-DEW."</i></blockquote>
<br />
The new scent named Soft Youth Dew was completely upstaged by Yves Saint Laurent's Opium perfume.<br />
<br />
<br />
Estee told Women’s Wear Daily that she almost passed out at seeing Opium in September 22, 1978.<br />
At the discovery that YSL beat her to the punch in creating an opulent Oriental perfume, Lauder promptly scrapped Soft Youth Dew. With a slightly altered fragrance, it was reborn as Cinnabar, suggestive of the same heady pleasures as Opium.<br />
<br />
<br />
But some people started seeing the familiar Soft Youth-Dew bottle adorned with red tops and wondered why. Its because in her rush to get Cinnabar on the market, there wasn't much time to make a complete bottle change just yet. Cinnabar was not just a new look but a new and retitled version of Youth-Dew.<br />
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Cinnabar was the new 1980's version of Soft Youth-Dew, Estee Lauder's great fragrance classic. She warmed it with deep spice-notes and wrapped it in rich Cinnabar Red. Cinnabar’s wrapping paper came from the design of a pair of Evelyn’s carved cinnabar earrings. Lauder didn’t know it at the time, but the design is an ancient Oriental symbol of good luck - a happy coincidence.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>Fragrance Composition:</u></b></h3>
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So what does the original version smell like? Cinnabar is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women. Spicy, exotic oriental with top note of mandarin and cloves combined with rose, jasmine and carnation. Background blends warmth of ambery, mossy and woody notes.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">It begins with a spicy aldehydic top, followed by a spicy exotic floral heart, resting on a sensual balsamic base.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: spice oils, cyclamen, orange, chamomile, peach, bergamot, orange blossom and tangerine, mandarin</li>
<li>Middle notes: cloves, carnation, cinnamon, jasmine absolute, orris, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang and lily </li>
<li>Base notes: myrrh, civet, olibanum, tolu balsam, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense, sandalwood, musk and patchouli</li>
</ul>
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And it's predecessor, Soft Youth Dew, is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women, a lighter, fresher version of the original fragrance masterpiece.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes; aldehydes, carnation, daffodil</li>
<li>Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, hyacinth</li>
<li>Base notes: patchouli, cedar, vetiver, elemi, amber, civet, musk and galbanum</li>
</ul>
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An industry source said Lauder embarked on a "massive ad campaign for Cinnabar" in order to compete with YSL's Opium. LNA shows that most of Lauder's ad dollars went towards multi-product advertising which received a one million dollar campaign. Opium retailed for $100 an ounce, and Cinnabar sold for exactly half that, outselling its competition.<br />
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New York Magazine, 1980:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>"Cinnabar is Estee Lauder's fragrance for the 1980's. Warmed with the deepest spice notes. Wrapped in the richest lacquer red. Discover the opulence of Cinnabar now.</i></blockquote>
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<h3>
<u>Fate of the Fragrance:</u></h3>
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Cinnabar was reformulated in the 2000s.<br />
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Reformulated version:<br />
<ul>
<li>Top notes: spices, peach, cloves, bergamot, orange blossom and tangerine. </li>
<li>Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang and lily </li>
<li>Base notes; olibanum, tolu balsam, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense, sandalwood and patchouli</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Success spawns imitations:</u></b></h3>
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To compete with both Opium and Cinnabar, an even cheaper alternative was created. It was called Ninja by Parfums de Coeur. A national ad campaign was put out in magazines like Working Woman and Good Housekeeping.<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i> "In a national survey of beauty editors, a majority preferred Ninja to YSL's Opium or Estee Lauder's Cinnabar! A great gift at just $5 00. Experience Ninja in a special "get acquainted" .3 oz. spray cologne for only $2.50. If you like Opium ($30) or Cinnabar ($18.50) You can't afford not to try"</i></blockquote>
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Even though Opium and Cinnabar are still offered for sale, some women still hunt for Ninja...<br />
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GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1497659747631655779.post-1659521993071569612014-09-17T14:43:00.003-04:002022-05-06T13:48:43.523-04:00Aramis by Estee Lauder c1964<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Aramis, one of the best selling male fragrances of all time, surprisingly was, in its original incarnation, a fragrance for women.<br />
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Launched in 1964 by Estee Lauder, it was largely inspired by Cabochard by Gres, a women’s fragrance created by the same perfumer in 1958. Created by Bernard Chant.<br />
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<i>"Love having an Aramis man around..?"</i></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><i><br /></i></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_ClgnaKkyrDOZYX-qa_KEPNCdUiXJ1izvIUrN2K2g_hpym0H23s3KrCurpx1nKniykylvMLTVzVt9VKyXRbL0bnmLOzTvvtVtVAIY1hWjg-L6QEXNH0oByT7XXqikVkgZG-Ji8IT7qTTKzoPehZs_k8ObjDxTgM9j_YoHdE1UANKNoobtkchsXwNVg/s1518/ra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="1071" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_ClgnaKkyrDOZYX-qa_KEPNCdUiXJ1izvIUrN2K2g_hpym0H23s3KrCurpx1nKniykylvMLTVzVt9VKyXRbL0bnmLOzTvvtVtVAIY1hWjg-L6QEXNH0oByT7XXqikVkgZG-Ji8IT7qTTKzoPehZs_k8ObjDxTgM9j_YoHdE1UANKNoobtkchsXwNVg/w452-h640/ra.jpg" width="452" /></a></div><i><br /></i></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><i><br /></i></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span><a name='more'></a></span><i><br /></i>Marketing tests to select the perfume for Aramis, Mr. Nielsen says, showed that men wanted a distinctive scent. Aramis, when marketed towards men, was formulated to be "rich, distinctive, dominant and long lasting", said the fragrance's creator. It is available in a series of products and its woodsy, peppery Oriental scent is anything but the "barbershop" type.<br />
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<u>Fragrance composition:</u></h3>
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So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leather chypre fragrance for men. Top note blends diffusive citrus notes, fresh, leafy green accents and bright herbaceous notes (sage, thyme). Supported by rich mid complex of spices (cardamom, clove) and classic chypre notes of patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver and moss, blending with elegant background of smooth leather notes and moss.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">It begins with a herbaceous, spicy fresh top, followed by a dry, woody floral heart, resting on a warm, leathery, mossy base.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Top notes: bergamot oil, artemisia, aldehydes, gardenia, cumin, green note, thyme</li>
<li>Middle notes: jasmine, cardamom, patchouli, orris, vetiver, sandalwood, wild clary sage, myrtle oil, clove bud oil</li>
<li>Base notes: leather, oak moss, castoreum, amber, musk</li>
</ul>
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The scent of Aramis was available in the following forms:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Cologne</li>
<li>Herbal Cologne</li>
<li>Friction Lotion</li>
<li>Stick Deodorant</li>
<li>Roll On Deodorant</li>
<li>Spray Deodorant Talc</li>
<li>Shaving Foam</li>
<li>After Shave</li>
<li>After Shave Cream</li>
<li>After Shave Emulsion</li>
<li>Special Shave Formula</li>
<li>Hair Spray</li>
<li>Hair Stay</li>
<li>Bath Soap</li>
<li>Hair Groom Spray</li>
<li>Pre-Electric</li>
<li>Cool Spray Talc</li>
<li>Astringent</li>
<li>Shampoo on a Rope</li>
<li>All Weather Hand Cream</li>
<li>Pick Up Facial Mask</li>
<li>Mark Out in Natural or Sun Tan ( a concealer for blemishes)</li>
<li>Eye Pads</li>
<li>Spray Shower Oil</li>
<li>RNA Bio-Complex Moisturizing Cream</li>
<li>Malt Enriched Shampoo</li>
<li>Grit Soap</li>
<li>Pre-Shave Concentrate</li>
<li>Shaving Concentrate</li>
<li>After Shave Concentrate</li>
<li>Bronzing Gel</li>
<li>Hair Gel</li>
<li>Hair Wash</li>
<li>Aerosol Spray Cologne</li>
<li>Heavy Duty Groom Spray</li>
<li>Aramis Razor</li>
<li>Aramis Comb</li>
</ul>
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According to fragrance expert Roja Dove, ‘There is nothing inherently masculine or feminine about a fragrance – it’s all marketing."<br />
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Milton Bentz, creator of Tuli-Latus, a perfumery company that created smell alike fragrances in the 1970s, who often wore his women's fragrance recreations, remarked in a 1974 article that "I've never felt that a man wearing perfume would, in any way, compromise his masculinity."<br />
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It is interesting to note that more than half of all men’s colognes are bought by women, which is why the best-selling men’s fragrances are those best liked by women, and this is something that the industry’s ‘noses’ are very conscious of. My husband often spritzes on my vintage Black Cashmere by Donna Karan, it works beautifully on his skin and smells delicious.<br />
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An estimated one-third of men’s fragrances sold, are bought by women to wear themselves. Sometimes I wear my husband's Pi by Givenchy, I love the blend of the vanilla and the spices.<br />
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</div>GHhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08581508408018361307noreply@blogger.com0