In 1978, the perfume industry was undergoing a transformative period. The 1970s were characterized by a return to more classic, sophisticated scents as the bold, experimental fragrances of the 1960s began to wane. This era saw a growing interest in elegance and refinement, with an emphasis on traditional perfumery techniques and ingredients. Fragrances were becoming more complex and nuanced, reflecting the broader cultural shift towards a more polished and glamorous lifestyle.
During this time, there was a resurgence of interest in floral and chypre fragrances, with a particular focus on blending classic elements with modern sophistication. Estee Lauder's introduction of "Celadon" in 1978 can be seen as a response to this trend. It sought to capture the essence of both timeless elegance and contemporary chic, aligning with the prevailing market demands for refined, yet distinctive, scents.
The name "Celadon" is deeply evocative and rooted in cultural and aesthetic significance. Celadon refers to a type of glaze used in East Asian ceramics, particularly in China and Korea, known for its soft green color. This term has come to represent a subtle, sophisticated shade of green, often associated with tranquility and refinement. By choosing this name, Estee Lauder was likely aiming to convey a sense of elegance and calmness, reflecting the sophisticated nature of the fragrance.
The word "Celadon" evokes images of delicate porcelain and serene landscapes. It suggests a sense of timeless beauty and understated luxury, making it a fitting choice for a perfume intended to appeal to discerning women looking for something both classic and unique. The name implies a refined and gentle elegance, aligning with the fragrance's likely profile.
Women responding to "Celadon" would likely find it appealing for its refined and sophisticated character. The fragrance's name would evoke feelings of calm and serenity, as well as a sense of understated luxury. The association with celadon ceramics, which are often admired for their delicate and tranquil beauty, would suggest a fragrance that is both soothing and elegant.
In a time when perfumes were increasingly reflecting classic sophistication, "Celadon" would stand out for its blend of traditional elegance with a modern twist. Its appeal would be rooted in its ability to convey a sense of timeless beauty, making it a choice for women who appreciated both historical refinement and contemporary style.
The New Romantics:
In 1978, Estée Lauder's innovative approach to fragrance was embodied in the launch of The New Romantics Collection, a groundbreaking trio designed to reflect the layered fashion trends of the time. This collection, which included White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion, was conceived with the intention of providing women with a versatile and personalized fragrance experience. The idea was to offer scents that could be worn individually for distinct olfactory profiles or layered together to create a multitude of unique fragrance combinations.
The concept behind The New Romantics Collection was inspired by the layered fashion trends of the late 1970s, where clothing often featured multiple textures and colors combined to create a single, cohesive look. Estée Lauder mirrored this fashion trend in her fragrances, allowing each perfume to be a standalone experience while also blending harmoniously with the others. This layering capability meant that when worn together, the three fragrances could interact to produce 27 different olfactory permutations, offering women nearly endless possibilities to tailor their scent to their mood or occasion.
Estée Lauder's vision for this collection was to empower women with the freedom to experiment and express themselves through fragrance. In her own words, "Fragrance is an extension of the women who wears it, a reaching out to those around her. My new three fragrances are meant to be enjoyed with new freedom. I created them to work together through their floral notes... The ingredients are natural so that one complements the other. A woman will never mix them quite the same way. She will enjoy each one separately, but she will have almost endless possibilities to express her own creations, too."
Each fragrance in The New Romantics Collection was crafted with natural ingredients that were chosen to harmonize with one another, ensuring that the overall sensory experience was both cohesive and versatile. White Linen brought a crisp, clean aroma, Celadon offered a fresh, green floral scent, and Pavilion provided a richer, more complex floral note. Together, these scents created a sophisticated olfactory palette that could be mixed and matched according to personal preference.
This innovative approach allowed women to explore their individuality and creativity through fragrance, aligning with the broader cultural shifts of the time that emphasized personal expression and freedom. By providing a structured yet flexible framework for fragrance layering, Estée Lauder not only offered a novel way to experience perfume but also resonated deeply with the evolving attitudes toward personal style and identity.
In 1978, White Linen emerged as a hallmark of crisp, spring-like freshness. Its scent was designed to evoke the purity and vitality of a new season, capturing the essence of clean linens fresh from the wash and the invigorating spirit of spring. This fragrance featured a delicate yet vibrant composition that emphasized clarity and simplicity, making it ideal for those who sought a light, refreshing scent that resonated with the natural elegance of springtime.
In contrast, Celadon was characterized as a "light mixture of a flower garden," blending the floral richness of a lush garden with a touch of verdant greenery. Its composition was a harmonious fusion of jonquils and ylang ylang, complemented by a mix of fruity and green notes that added depth and vibrancy to the fragrance. The result was a scent that evoked the delicate beauty of a blooming garden, capturing both the sweetness of flowers and the freshness of green foliage.
Pavilion offered a more exotic and complex olfactory experience, described as a "sensuous sophisticated formulation." It featured a rich bouquet of tuberose, narcissus, and jasmine, which were intertwined with earthy patchouli and warm spices. Mossy tones provided an additional layer of depth, creating a fragrance that was both luxurious and intriguing. This scent was crafted to embody sophistication and sensuality, appealing to those who desired a more opulent and enveloping fragrance experience.
Estée Lauder emphasized the connection between fragrance and personal lifestyle, noting that "Fragrance is not separate from living. Women have more varied lifestyles than ever before. They are more independent and more confident. They are showing more creativity. Now they can be as individual with fragrance as they are with their wardrobes." This perspective highlighted the evolving role of fragrance in a woman’s life, reflecting her independence and creativity. With The New Romantics Collection, Lauder provided women with the tools to express their unique identities through scent, allowing them to curate their olfactory experiences just as they did their wardrobes. This approach celebrated the diverse and dynamic nature of modern life, offering a range of fragrances that could adapt to and enhance each woman's individual style.
Layering The New Romantics:
Estée Lauder provided a range of creative tips for wearing her The New Romantics Collection fragrances, emphasizing the versatility and personal expression offered by her innovative layering concept. Her advice was intended to help women maximize the impact and enjoyment of each scent, enhancing the overall olfactory experience.
One of her suggestions was to wear the fragrances side by side, allowing each scent to bloom independently. This approach mirrors the way quadraphonic sound creates a rich, immersive auditory experience, with each fragrance contributing its unique notes to a harmonious whole. By applying the perfumes in this manner, the individual characteristics of each scent would be appreciated, while their combined effect would create a multifaceted and dynamic fragrance experience.
Lauder also recommended layering vertically, using White Linen on the neck and shoulders to highlight its crisp, spring-like freshness, Celadon on the arms to add a floral and green complexity, and Pavilion on the back of the knees for a deeper, more sensual touch. This method allowed the more robust scents to rise and mingle with the lighter notes, creating a balanced and evolving fragrance profile that interacted with the body’s natural warmth and movement.
For a more adaptive approach, Lauder suggested applying different fragrances throughout the day based on mood and activity. Starting the day with the invigorating freshness of White Linen would provide a crisp, clean start, while transitioning to Celadon in the afternoon would bring a refreshing, floral nuance. As evening approached, Pavilion could be applied to evoke a sophisticated, sensual aura. This method allowed women to tailor their scent to different parts of their day, enhancing their overall experience.
Another playful recommendation was to wear Celadon on one wrist, Pavilion on the other, and White Linen on the neck and shoulders. This technique created a dynamic interplay of scents as the wearer moved, with the fragrances drifting and blending across their body. This approach highlighted the collection's layering potential and added an element of personal interaction with the fragrances.
Lauder encouraged experimentation with quantities to achieve the desired effect. She suggested using one short spray of Celadon, two long sprays of Pavilion, and three short sprays of White Linen, or applying one fragrance all over and touching pulse points with others. This flexibility allowed women to customize their scent experience to match their preferences and the intensity they desired.
Finally, Lauder noted that wearing multiple fragrances helped maintain a fresh perception of the scents. When wearing only one fragrance for an extended period, one’s senses can become accustomed to it, diminishing its impact. By alternating between two or three fragrances, the nose remained attuned to the evolving notes, ensuring that the scent continued to be perceived as novel and engaging. This approach also meant that those around the wearer would remain pleasantly aware of the fragrance’s complexity and allure.
Prices for The New Romantics:
In 1980, the retail prices for The New Romantics Collection reflected a tiered pricing strategy based on both the fragrance and the size of the bottle. For the smaller 0.5 oz parfum sprays, White Linen was priced at $8.50, making it the most expensive of the trio. This price premium likely reflected its growing popularity and perceived value. Pavilion followed closely at $8.00, while Celadon was priced at $7.50, positioning it as the most affordable option in the smaller size.
When considering the larger 1.75 oz parfum sprays, White Linen remained the priciest at $20.00, reinforcing its status as the collection's flagship fragrance. Pavilion was priced at $17.50, and Celadon at $15.00, showing a consistent pricing hierarchy that mirrored the smaller sizes. The differences in pricing across the perfumes could have been influenced by factors such as production costs, perceived market demand, and the individual appeal of each fragrance.
By 1994, the prices for the 0.5 oz parfum sprays had decreased slightly, reflecting a shift in the market or a strategic adjustment by Estée Lauder. White Linen remained at $8.50, unchanged from its 1980 price. Pavilion saw a reduction to $7.50, and Celadon dropped to $6.50. The price adjustments for Pavilion and Celadon indicated a continued effort to remain competitive and accessible, possibly due to their diminished popularity compared to White Linen. These price changes highlighted the evolving dynamics within the fragrance market and the impact of consumer preferences on pricing strategies.
Popularity of White Linen:
Estée Lauder's The New Romantics Collection was initially envisioned as an adventurous exploration of fragrance layering, reflecting the trend of combining multiple scents to create a unique, personalized olfactory experience. White Linen, Celadon, and Pavilion were each crafted to interact harmoniously, allowing women to experiment with different combinations and express their individuality through scent. However, despite the innovative concept, White Linen quickly emerged as the standout success of the line, eclipsing its companions and becoming the focal point of the collection.
As White Linen gained popularity, it became clear that it was the true winner among the trio. The fragrance resonated strongly with consumers, leading Estée Lauder to pivot its focus solely toward this successful product. By 1985, the two other fragrances, Celadon and Pavilion, were described as "moribund" in comparison, indicating they were struggling to maintain relevance and appeal in the marketplace.
In 1986, Bob Barnes, then president of Estée Lauder USA, acknowledged a concern that White Linen was being perceived as a summer fragrance, potentially limiting its appeal throughout the year. To counter this perception and reinforce its versatility, the company adopted a new tagline: "White Linen, a crisp, refreshing fragrance from Estée Lauder to live in all summer long, all year long." This strategic move aimed to broaden the fragrance's appeal, emphasizing its suitability for any season.
Ultimately, White Linen proved to be the enduring success of The New Romantics Collection, while Celadon and Pavilion were discontinued around 1994. The preference for a single, distinct fragrance over a layering system may have contributed to this outcome. Women may have favored the simplicity of a singular, well-defined scent rather than the complexity of combining multiple perfumes. White Linen's ability to capture and maintain consumer interest ensured its lasting presence, while the concept of layering multiple fragrances, despite its initial allure, did not resonate as strongly in the long term.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Celadon is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. "A true drift of glorious flowers - a delicious field full of jonquils and exotic greenery."
- Top notes: aldehydes, galbanum, bergamot
- Middle notes: rose, jonquil
- Base notes: musk, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar
Scent Profile:
As you experience the top notes of "Celadon," the initial burst is a vibrant, effervescent blend of aldehydes, galbanum, and bergamot. The aldehydes create a shimmering, almost soapy freshness that feels crisp and clean, like the first breath of air on a brisk morning. They provide a bright, sparkling quality that invigorates the senses.
Galbanum adds a rich, green intensity to the mix, reminiscent of freshly cut grass and verdant foliage. Its slightly resinous and herbaceous aroma brings to mind the lushness of a dew-kissed garden, evoking the essence of exotic greenery and a sense of verdant expansiveness. This green note is earthy yet refined, hinting at the richness of the fragrance to come. Bergamot contributes a citrusy brightness with its tangy, slightly bitter edge. It feels like a burst of sunshine, adding a zesty, lively quality that lifts the scent and adds a touch of sophisticated sparkle. Together, these top notes create a dynamic, fresh opening that feels both invigorating and elegantly complex.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its floral splendor, starting with the rose. This note brings a deep, velvety richness that envelops you in its classic beauty. The rose's scent is lush and romantic, with a hint of sweetness that feels both luxurious and timeless. Jonquil, with its delicate yet intoxicating fragrance, adds a unique floral facet to the heart of "Celadon." It has a fresh, slightly green and honeyed quality, reminiscent of a field of blooming jonquils on a warm spring day. This note lends a sense of natural, radiant beauty, enhancing the floral character of the perfume with a touch of exotic charm.
As the fragrance settles into its base, the scent deepens into a complex, earthy blend. Musk provides a sensual, skin-like warmth that feels intimate and alluring. Its subtle, animalic quality adds depth and a lingering presence to the fragrance, enhancing its overall sophistication. Vetiver adds a woody, smoky nuance, reminiscent of freshly turned earth and rich forest floors. Its green, rooty aroma grounds the perfume with a sense of natural richness and complexity, blending seamlessly with the other base notes to create a deep, resonant foundation.
Oakmoss introduces an earthy, slightly leathery undertone, evoking the scent of ancient forests and the lush undergrowth of a dense woodland. Its rich, mossy aroma adds a touch of timeless elegance, anchoring the fragrance with a sense of classic, enduring beauty. Sandalwood brings a creamy, woody warmth that feels smooth and luxurious. Its soft, almost milky scent imparts a feeling of calm and tranquility, complementing the other base notes with its rich, enduring fragrance.
Patchouli adds a touch of earthy, spicy depth with its rich, slightly sweet aroma. It evokes images of exotic lands and adds an element of mystery and sophistication to the base, blending harmoniously with the other notes. Cedar provides a crisp, dry woodiness that feels clean and fresh. Its aromatic quality is grounding and stabilizing, adding a touch of sharp, pine-like clarity to the base and contributing to the fragrance's overall balance and depth.
In "Celadon," each ingredient comes together to create a harmonious and multifaceted olfactory experience, blending fresh green notes with rich floral and earthy undertones to form a fragrance that is both elegant and evocative.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Celadon by Estee Lauder, which first graced the fragrance world in 1978, was discontinued around 1994. Its discontinuation marked the end of an era for a scent that captured a distinctive blend of fresh floral elegance and earthy sophistication. As a fragrance, Celadon was celebrated for its vibrant green notes and lush floral heart, offering a unique olfactory experience that resonated with its time. The decision to retire Celadon was likely influenced by shifting trends in the fragrance industry, as the market increasingly favored new and evolving scent profiles. The end of Celadon’s production was a poignant moment for enthusiasts of the perfume, as it closed a chapter on a beloved fragrance that had offered a refined and distinctive option in the realm of green floral scents.
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